Fiberglass bathtub repair inlay kits are a permanent repair for cracked damaged fiberglass, acrylic and cultured marble bathtub floors.

What is a fiberglass inlay and how do they work?

All fiberglass repair products are not alike. There are bathtub floor repair inlays that are made from plastic and glued to the floor of a bathtub with silicone. These cheap temporary patches are a waste of money.

The only repair inlay we recommend is offered by US Bath Products. It is made from durable semi-ridged composite and fused to the bathtub floor using a 2 part adhesive for a lifetime repair of your cracked fiberglass bathtub floor.

These inlays measure 16″ x 36″, are flexible and will never crack. Designed to look like a bathtub mat the fiberglass inlay will repair small to large cracks including holes in the floor of your bathtub. They can be used on fiberglass, acrylic and cultured marble bathtub floors and support up to 250 lbs.

Supporting a weak fiberglass bathtub floor

Installation takes about an hour for a bathtub that doesn’t require extra support under the repair area. If the bathtub floor is spongy or has a lot of flex when you step into it then extra support is needed.

To support a weak cracked bathtub floor the crack must first be stopped from further cracking. This is accomplished by drilling a 1/4 inch hole at each end of the crack .

Once the cracking is mitigated the repair area needs to receive extra support by injecting triple expanding foam under the bathtub and just under the damaged area of the floor. Triple expanding foam can be purchased at your local hardware store and comes in spray cans. A typical repair requires one can of expanding foam.

The expanding foam is injected through the holes that were drilled on the ends of the crack and allowed to expand under the repair area until the foam starts to come out of the crack then stop injecting the foam.

Allow the foam to dry and cure for 24 hours. Once cured cut or scrape the foam away flush with the bathtub floor then proceed with the inlay install.

Installing the fiberglass bathtub floor repair inlay

The fiberglass bathtub crack repair inlay kit will come with a plastic pail for mixing the 2 part glue compound, an application spreader for applying the compound once mixed and gloves. Additional supplies you will need include:

Acetone
1-1/2 inch masking tape
Paper Towels
100 grit sandpaper

When your fiberglass bathtub repair inlay arrives, lay the inlay on a flat surface and weight it down with a couple of books and let it acclimate to room temperature for 24 hours.

Once the inlay has acclimated temporarily place the inlay on the floor of the bathtub covering the damaged area and positioned where you want the inlay to be permanently place. Note the inlay must be placed on the flat part of the bathtub and not curl up the wall of the bathtub.

Weight the inlay down using a couple of books then outline the shape of the inlay using the masking tape. Once outlined remove the inlay. Using the 100 grit sandpaper rough sand the barhtub floor inside the area of the tape where the inlay will go. Rough sand until the area is matte with no gloss sheen.

When using chemicals and glue ventilate the area by opening windows or by using a fan.

Vacuum up the dust caused by sanding. Then using a paper towel dampened with Acetone wipe the floor area inside the tape removing any sanding film and contaminants from the surface. Allow Acetone to dry completely.

In the plastic pail provided thoroughly mix all of contents of bottle A and bottle B together making sure you scrap the sides of the pail as you mix. Using the spreader provided apply an even layer of the glue compound you just mixed to the bathtub floor area inside the taped outline where the inlay is to be placed.

With the smooth side of the fiberglass bathtub repair inlay facing down towards the bottom of the bathtub, place the inlay onto the bathtub floor inside the taped outline and press into the glue compound.

Using a roller or a smooth sponge and starting in the middle of the inlay press firmly on the inlay while pushing the roller or sponge out towards the tape outline. Continue doing this all around the inlay pushing the bubbles out of the glue compound.

Excess glue compound will push out onto the tape. When done carefully remove the tape and discard in the trash. You can wipe up any excess glue that got onto the bathtub with Acetone.

Allow the inlay and leftover glue compound in the pail to dry for 24 hours before using bathtub or discarding leftover material in the trash. To maintain your new fiberglass bathtub repair inlay wash it weekly with mild soap and water.

By Peter Carr

It takes just 30 seconds for a small flame to turn into a major fire. A smoke alarm saves lives by detecting smoke giving your family time to escape.
If your family is asleep when a fire breaks out in the home a working smoke alarm may be your only warning. This guide will help you with placement of smoke alarms, how to regularly test and maintain while preventing fires.

Don’t ignore an audible alarm

Approximately 60% of deaths in home fires happen because they had no smoke alarm to warn them or the alarms they did have didn’t operate properly. Smoke alarms must have electrical power or a charged battery to function.

Treat every alarm as an emergency. Investigate each alarm even if you think it is a false alarm. Smoke alarms do just that, detect smoke. If you smell smoke go outside and call 911. Do not go back in the house unless you are instructed by emergency personnel.

Where to place smoke alarms in the house

While smoke alarms are required in hotels commercial buildings, condos and apartments they are not yet required in private homes in most states. The placement of a smoke alarm is very important. You want to install one in every bedroom, in hallways, in the living areas of the home, in your basement and in or near kitchens.

It is typically recommended to place the alarm on the ceiling or on the wall close to the ceiling. Gas companies and your local fire department are available to share local codes and provide you a plan on where best to install smoke alarms in your house.

Where not to place a smoke alarm

A smoke alarm is sensitive to things like exhaust fumes, excessive dust and moisture. Most false alarms are triggered by these factors. The National Fire Protection Association also recommends that a smoke alarm be placed at least 10 feet away from any stove and oven, microwave, grill or hot plate.

Batteries must not be removed from alarms that trigger falsely. It is recommended that the silence button be used until the alarm is placed in a better area of the house. Keep away from wall or floor vents. Do not place smoke alarms in garages or unfinished attic spaces.

Types of alarms and when to replace batteries

Most homes have a simple battery operated smoke detector while others like condos and apartments may have several smoke detectors spread throughout the rooms that are wired together and powered by 120v electricity with a battery backup. There are also smoke alarms that have a 10 year built in batteries that when expired the whole alarm is replaced.

Whichever alarm you have it must be tested regularly and the battery replaced yearly if not more. Another type of smoke alarm available will be combined with a carbon monoxide detector.

When to replace old smoke alarms

Smoke Alarms do have a manufacturers expiration dates and the National Fire Protection Association recommends that any smoke alarm that is 10 years old or more, has been damaged in any way or continuous malfunctions should be replaced with a new one. For those who cannot afford to replace or install a smoke alarm there are local and state programs in most locals that will provide one free of charge contact your local city or county offices for more information.

Each city and state has regulations and laws governing smoke alarms and the responsibility of landlords to provide working smoke detectors in their buildings. If your landlord refuses or has not provided a working smoke detector in your home in a timely manner contact your local government building codes department and report them.

Smoke detectors when traveling

The last thing just about anyone thinks of when traveling is “Does this smoke alarm work?”. We assume that everything in our hotel room or vacation home is working.

The fact is some hotels neglect to maintain smoke alarms even though states perform inspections on a regular basis.. You can’t depend on someone else for your safety. When it comes to fire protection. It is best to be proactive.

If you can access the smoke alarm in your hotel room or vacation rental test it. Every smoke alarm has a test button. If you don’t feel comfortable call the front desk or host and have them test it.

Some rentals may have heat sensors only or a combination of smoke detectors and heat sensors. Heat sensors are monitored so don’t touch them. Most hotel smoke detectors look just like the one you have at home. If you have a question about either one call the front desk or host.

Alarms need regular maintenance

You alarms need to be maintained so if or when there is a fire they work and give you early warning. Change the batteries on a regular basis. Spray dust from the outside and inside with canned air. Wipe the exterior clean with a slightly damp rag following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Follow this guide and make sure that your family is protect just in case the unthinkable happens.

By Peter Carr

Air fresheners and sprays mask odors. Eliminating odors like mildew, sewer gases and other bathroom smells starts by locating the source. Many areas in the bathroom can produce odors not just the toilet.

Types of bathroom odors

For long term removal you have to first identify the odor. Strong ammonia smell indicates urine while sewer gases have a rotten egg smell. Most musty odors are caused by mildew, mold and damp moisture.

Where the smell is coming from is also important. Check the drains in your bathroom for a sour smell that can indicate stagnant water, hair clogs, bacteria forming and scum buildup.

Odors coming from the base of a toilet bowl or signs of seepage can be a damaged wax seal. Following these signs will help point to a fix. Leaks under a toilet can also cause damage to the flooring that can result in odors.

Bathroom odors that point to plumbing or moisture problems

If you keep cleaning and continue to smell the same odors time after time this can suggest a more serious issue. Drains that constantly clog, sewage smells that come back after cleaning, visible mold and wet walls require a deeper inspection.

Water damage from leaks is costly to repair the longer you wait. If needed call a professional plumber or leak detection company to check for a possible leaking pipe behind the walls.

Areas to check that can be a source of odors

Inspect and clean toilet bolts at the base of the bowl, toilet seat hinges and the underside of the seat. The seam at the base of the toilet that meets the floor can show signs of leakage. For urine a blue light can be used to detect urine that cannot be seen by the naked eye.

Enzymatic cleaners are best for urine as they break down organic matter on non-porous surfaces. After use follow up with a bathroom disinfectant and follow the directions for use. Pay close attention to wall base, behind the toilet and any remaining hardware.

Odors in drains overflows and p-traps

Sinks showers and bathtubs have drains overflows and p-traps that accumulate soap scum, and bacteria. These need cleared of hair, debris and if possible brushed out if they start to smell.

At minimum flush with very hot water or remove the drain and clean with a brush. Drains can also be sprayed with disinfectant. Floor drains are known for stagnant water that can smell pretty bad so flush these out too.

Mildew mold and soap scum

The number one cause of odors in a shower is the shower curtain. Mildew and mold form here the most. The curtain needs to be washed on a regular basis along with scrubbing walls, grout and caulking of soap scum.

Drying these areas after showering can help too. Ventilation is very important. Most bathrooms have an exhaust fan or a window for ventilation of moisture. Mold can breed fast in a moist humid environment without proper ventilation.

Preventative Bathroom Maintenance

Regular maintenance can stop most bathroom odors. Inspect and check for water leaks monthly. Repair any leaks in a timely manner before rotten wood drywall or mold cause odor problems.

Remove wet towels and bath mats from floors and wipe down showers after use. Clean shower curtain regularly. Schedule weekly cleaning using a disinfectant on non-porous surfaces. Pay close attention to the toilet and surrounding areas. Daily routines of cleaning and proper ventilation will eliminate the odors in your bathroom.

By CW Mathews

There are mold spores in every home and what is scaring people are the horror stories we hear about homes being destroyed and people getting sick. In this guide we will explain the different types of mold, how to identify them and how to remove them from your home.

What are mold spores

Mold spores are individual mold and are naturally in the air. They enter your home through open windows and doors. They can get on your clothes and enter your house even ride in on your pets.

Mold spores only become a problem when they multiply rapidly and form colonies. This happens when they are exposed to moisture, low heat, humidity and food source like sheetrock or wood products.

Identifying harmless mold versus toxic mold

Common household mold and mildew are harmless types of mold. Harmless mold forms on shower enclosures, exterior fencing, around sinks and is easily wiped off of smooth surfaces.

Stachybotrys or what is commonly known as “black mold” is toxic appearing slimy or wet. When dry black mold is like a powder and this type of mold requires special treatment to remove safely.

Black mold can also be orange in color, brown and dark green. This type of mold should not be disturbed.

Other signs of mold include a musty smell or wet newspaper odor. This type of odor indicates mold is growing. Mold can be growing behind a wall or tiled shower, under your carpeting or in the crawl space of your house.

Symptoms of poor air quality due to black mold

Black mold spores inhaled at high levels result in negative health symptoms like coughing, sneezing, running nose and eye irritation. The elderly, infants and asthma patients may get severe reactions including lung infections.

In severe cases the mycotoxins from black mold exposure can effect the whole body causing fatigue, brain fog, tremors and rashes.

Safely cleaning black mold and when to hire a professional

Small areas of mold only on non porous material can be cleaned by scrubbing with a mixture of dish soap and warm water. Do not use bleach on any porous surface as you are not getting the roots of the mold that are embedded in the material and the mold will just come back.

Protect yourself by wearing disposable gloves, eye protection and wash your clothing after your are done cleaning mold.

Large areas of black mold require the expertise of a professional mold removal team. Disturbing mold spores can make them airborne and spread the mold to other rooms in the house.

The experts have the right tools and machines to keep that from happening. A mold team will contain the affected area and remove the toxic mold.

In any case the source of moisture be it a leaking pipe or moisture seeping through a shower wall must be repaired before starting any cleanup efforts as mold will form again in a couple days if moisture is allowed to remain.

Protect your home against toxic black mold

Besides repairing leaks and sealing wet areas like tiles surrounds controlling humidity is the key to stopping mold colonies. A 30% to 50% humidy is optimal. In Basements use a dehumidifier during high humidity periods.

Make sure that your basement walls are sealed to prevent moisture from seeping into the space. Always exhaust moisture in bathrooms and kitchens with fans and inspect your home for mold on a regular basis.

By Peter Carr

The first requirement is to assess the job. Are the walls covering the bathtub tile or some other material?. If tile a few rows of tile need to be removed to lift the tub out be careful if this is old tile that is hard to replace. If sheet vinyl or a sectional surround is install above the bathtub these must be removed first before removing the old bathtub.

Measuring the  bathtub

Measure the old tub once the tiles or wall enclosure and any drywall is removed. Measure the length from top edge to edge. Measure the width from the same and the height of the bathtub from the floor all the way up to the top edge. Write these measurements down you will need them for purchasing your replacement bathtub.

New bathtubs can be purchased from most hardware stores like Lowes or Home Depot or you can shop for one online and have it delivered to the job site. If ordering online be sure to double check your measurements.

Removing the old bathtub

You will need to remove some plumbing first starting with the overflow cover just above the bathtub drain. Then remove the tub water spout, water control lever and cover.

The spout is either a twist off counter clockwise or a compression fit in which you will need an allen wrench to remove. Next remove the drain from the bathtub. To do this you will need a drain removal tool called a Drain Plug Tool available at your local Lowes or Home Depot store. Carefully remove the drain from the bathtub.

Now remove any water board or drywall that may be overlapping the edges of the bathtub and at this point you should be able to lift the tub out starting on one side.

Ask someone to help you if needed. Avoid damaging any plumbing or waterlines.

Installation tools and materials needed

• A pry bar
• Hammer
• Screwdrivers
• Wrench or pliers
• New bathtub
• Waterproof membrane or water board
• Caulking
• Teflon tape and connectors

Safety

Turn off the water at controls. Wear safety glasses and gloves. Clear the area of all debris. Find help to remove heavy objects and wear a back support belt when lifting.

Installing the new bathtub

Measure and install any missing or damaged drywall. If installing new tiles be sure to install new water board for reinstalling the tiles. These materials should extend to the edges of the tub so tiles or other wall coverings can overlap the tub edging.

If you will be installing all new drywall make sure the installation area is smooth and level. Clean the area thoroughly and then set the new bathtub into place. Make sure the tub is centered and level. You can use wooden shims to level if necessary.

Connect the drain and overflow first, then install the drywall, wall board for bathtub surround or tiles. Seal the edges of the tub with high-quality caulk or grout tiles to prevent water leaks. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions closely for best results. Install the water spout, shower water controls and showerhead when finished.

Disposal of old bathtub and final inspection

Properly dispose of the old bathtub if possible by recycling the metal. If not possible to recycle place in a landfill. Inspect the installation for proper fit of plumbing fixtures, fill bathtub with water and test drainage. Once walls or tile are installed properly caulk the bathtub.

By Leo Rosa

Caulking your bathtub and shower is a do-it-yourself job that doesn’t require hiring a professional. In this guide we will provide expert step by step instructions in how to do the job right.

What to look for when checking the caulking?

Cracks or Peeling: Separation from the bathtub or walls and cracking of the caulking means it is time to recaulk. Easily peeling off in strips is another sign the caulking has failed.

Mold and Mildew: Mold or mildew that can be wiped off is not an issue but if it is embedded in the caulking the waterproof features of the caulking have outlived it’s life and needs to be replaced.

Old and Discolored: When caulking gets old it turns yellow and may be stained. Replacing the caulking give the fixture a fresh look.

Tools you will need for the project

Standard Caulking Gun

Razor Knife

Caulking Scraper Tool

Putty Knife

Painters Blue Tape

220 Grit Sandpaper

Which caulking should you use?

There are several types and brands of caulking available. The best caulking for a bathtub and shower is 100% silicone.

Silicone caulk is not only completely waterproof it resists mold, remains flexible and is easy to work with. Use a silicone caulk that is specifically formulated for kitchens and baths.

Silicone caulking cannot be painted. If you need to paint over caulking use a latex or mix that states on the label that it can be painted. Caulking also comes in other colors besides clear or white.

The step-by-step recaulking process

Supplies Needed:

Safety Glasses

Acetone

Paper Towels

Disposable Gloves

Caulking removal

The first step is to remove the caulk. The goal is to remove all of the old caulking this is done by using a razor knife to cut along the bottom of the caulking that meets the bathtub or shower pan followed by cutting along the wall where the caulking adheres to tile or the shower gel coat.

While cutting out the old caulking be careful not to damage the surface. Use the caulking removal tool to remove the majority of the old caulking

A residue of old caulking will remain. Using a razor blade or scraper remove any caulk residue that remains on both surfaces.

To apply new caulking the area must be clean and dry. Scrubbing the area of application with a bathroom cleaning solution followed by a rinse and complete drying is essential.

To remove any soap residue wipe down with 70% denatured alcohol and let evaporate before applying new caulking.

Apply Caulking

Load the tube of caulking into the caulking gun and snip the top of the tube at a 45 degree angle. Poke a hole in the tube to start the flow.

Squeeze the trigger and empty a small amount on a paper towel. Apply the tip of the tube to the seam you want to caulk. Holding firmly squeeze the trigger of the caulking gun while moving the gun smoothly across the seam applying caulk as you go.

Try to apply in one continuous motion applying an even amount of caulking.
The finished product

Finish by smoothing out the caulk. Running your finger along the bead in a continuous motion be sure to press into the seam gap.

You can use a caulking tool to get an even coat if you don’t want to use your finger. If you see gaps in the caulk just apply more and smooth again.

Allow the caulking to dry and cure for a minimum of 24 hrs before using the bathtub or shower. Once cured weekly cleaning with a mild soap will keep your fixtures and caulking looking great for years.

By Leo Rosa

You don’t need the most expensive security system on the market. There are quality budget friendly home security systems available. This informative guide on diy home security will help you find the right security system and privide information on installing one in your home yourself.

Why choose a Diy security system over a professional system

Advances in home security technology have made home security much more affordable and easier to install then ever before now anyone can install their own security system. Professionally installed packages can be very expensive. By installing your own wireless security system you can expect to save up to 50% off the cost of your system.

This way you can also take your time and research and when the time comes there is no pressure from a sales person trying to sell you options you don’t need. That is not to say never use a professional if that is what your needs call for.

Benefits of Diy security systems

You decide the type of system you want, how much to spend and who will monitor your system if you opt in for 24 hour monitoring.

You also decide when to add to your security system. Start with the basics and upgrade as the need arises. A DIY wireless security system is also portable if you move take it with you.

Type of system you need

When planning think about the type of system you will need. Do you live in a house or rent an apartment? Both require the basics Wi-Fi, a base station, door contacts, infra-red motion detector and a video camera. Not to worry packaged basic systems are available. Some brands include Simply Safe and Ring. 

The components are easy to install with little effort and come with complete instructions for installing. If later you need extra contacts for windows, additional motion detectors or other additions they are readily available.

Your Security System Layout Plan

It is best to have a plan when installing a home security system. Map out your home on a piece of paper include all the rooms you want to include. Decide if you will be adding door contacts, window contacts, video cameras or motion detectors and where they will be installed.

Motion detectors can cover a whole room and activate an audible alarm if movement is detected. Video cameras typically record an event or allow you to observe a room anytime from a computer or smart phone. Window and door contact sensors activate an alarm if they are opened while the alarm is activated. Window sensors detect vibration and breaking of a glass window.

Smart doorbell cameras are another security feature that act as a doorbell, intercom and video camera all in one. Doorbell cams allow you to view the entry to your home and detect anyone at your front door. They can also record events day or night and notify you if you are not at home – Highly Recommended.

Special wireless exterior cameras that are waterproof can also be added to your security system to monitor your driveway, back yard, or side entrances to the garage 24 hours a day. Some even come with floodlights that are motion detected. Other security features include monitored smoke detectors, carbon-dioxide detectors, and leak detection sensors for flooding. You determine how much security is right for your family.

Getting Started Installing Your Security System

Following the instructions that came with your chosen home security system start by installing the base or wall mounted keypad. The keypad should be installed on the wall at the entry area of your front door for easy access as soon as you enter the home.

While focusing on the main entry install the front door contact sensor and the rest of the exterior entry doors including the access to the garage. Then install the window sensors. If your system came with motion detectors these should be place high on the wall in a corner of the room where the motion detector will have the most coverage.

Cameras should be mounted in areas high enough so nobody can tamper with them. Place a camera in the backyard or covering a patio, at the exterior entry to your home covering the front door area, at any side yard access and covering your driveway. A camera can also be mounted to view your pets when you are at work or a children’s play area basically anywhere you want.

After you have installed the system and are happy with the placement you need to connect the wireless system to Wi-Fi internet access. You will also need to load the app onto your phone for accessing the system remotely. Next test the system and all sensors and cameras to make sure they are working properly.

Other features that aid in providing security for your family include smart lighting that can be turned on remotely or during an alarm, exterior sirens to catch the attention of neighbors if your alarm is set off, smart locks that can be opened and closed remotely if you need to let someone into your home while you are not there.

Now that your security system is installed and tested make sure you regularly update the firmware, check to see if the batteries are good and that each part of the system is operating properly.

Energy audits and inspecting your home for energy repairs can lead to a more comfortable home while increasing it’s value.

A Look At Home Energy Efficiency?

Energy efficiency is more then just turning off lights when not in use or lowering the thermostat. Those things help but the biggest savings involve efficient appliances adding more insulation and finding more ways to waste less energy.

Every effort should be made to conserve using the latest technologies like LED lighting and energy efficient appliances. Not only will you save energy but you will also save money at the same time.

Home Energy Audit

Conducting a home energy audit can be done by you or many utility companies will perform one at no cost to you. These audits reveal how your home is losing energy. This can be by heat escaping through gaps in windows and doors or energy loss from old appliances.

An energy audit will provide you with access to low cost loans and information on how you can get rebates from your state and the federal government for installing new windows and energy rated appliances.

Conduct your own energy audit:
• Check the insulation in your attic.
• Inspect the caulking around windows.
• Check door weatherstripping and thresholds.
• List outdated appliances.
• Check light bulbs that are not energy efficient  LEDs.

Professional Home Energy Auditors

Professional auditors can find a lot more areas for improvement. Check with your local electric utility company to see if they conduct free energy audits.

Benefits of Attic Insulation

Attic insulation is a priority for any home. Insulation can cut your energy costs 25-30%. Not enough insulation means you are throwing money away by losing heat during the winter and cooling during the hot months.

Most attic spaces are under insulated costing homeowners hundreds of dollars a year on there heating and cooling bills. You would never know unless you go into your attic space and inspect.

There are different types of insulation fiberglass, foam and cellulose. The cost is based on the square footage of your attic. An insulation contractor or home improvement store can give you a quote on how much it would cost to insulation your attic space.

Windows and Doors

New windows and doors are more energy efficient  and are Energy Star-rated but if you can’t afford new there are some fixes you can do to cut energy bills.

Applying a window film can help keep heat out during the summer and promote better cooling during winter when combined with caulking to prevent drafts.

Installing Solar Panels

Solar panels are a great saver of energy if you can afford them. They reduce your energy consumption and reliance on the electricity grid.

Many state agencies offer tax incentives for installing solar panels. Even if you just install solar for your electric water heater you will save a lot of money.

Smart Thermostats

Smart thermostats where you can set schedules and turn on and off your heating/AC remotely can also save energy. Combined this with a newer heating and air unit you can save up to 50% on your utility bills.

Check with your energy company for rebates offered by state and federal agencies when installing certain energy rated products.

Automated lights and Devices

Automatic motion detecting lights and sensors reduce the need for lights being on the entire night. Light timers can also reduce your utility bills while continuing to provide security.

Scratches, chips burns and knife cuts are easily repaired using a do-it-yourself repair kit. Changing the color or renewing your dull outdated laminate countertop can be done by refinishing it saving you money and the hassle and cost of having a new one installed.

Deciding When To Repair Or Replace Your Countertop

Most countertop repairs are minor like chips cuts and scrapes. These are easy repairs. Then you have burns deep knife cuts or discoloration that require a little more effort to repair. All can be repaired with a countertop repair kit or complete refinishing. The cost to repair or refinish your countertops can be anywhere between 25% to 50% of professional replacement.

Once the cost of repairing reaches a certain limit say 75% of a new countertop then you should consider replacing your old countertop with a new one. Another consideration is the cost of labor to have a contractor do the installation or the hassle of messy remodeling.

Preparing for Repair and Refinishing

Now that you have decided to refinish or repair your countertops the first thing you need to do is inspect the countertop and determine what needs repaired. Even if you are going to refinish the countertop all repairs must be completed before the refinishing. Purchase a Countertop Repair Kit to do the repairs. We recommend US Bath Products as they are experts in refinishing and repair of countertops and sell the right products for the job.

Thoroughly clean the countertops using Acetone to remove dirt grease and any silicone residue that may be on the surface then let dry. If refinishing the countertops now would be a good time to mask and paper the walls to avoid overspray from the paint coating and damage to the walls from sanding.

It is easier to use a single run of masking tape then apply the masking paper over the tape.

Surface Preparation

Perform the repairs needed per the instructions in the Countertop Repair Kit you purchased. If refinishing the entire countertop lightly sand the entire surface of the countertop with 100 grit sand paper to help the new finish grip better. Remove any old paint or finishes that might interfere with bonding and be sure to sand the sides and edges of the countertop too. A smooth, clean surface is the goal.

After sanding wipe the surface clean of a debris with a damp cloth. Once dry you can use a tack cloth the remove any left over particles. Wipe the surface again with Actone and let dry.

Countertop Refinishing Paint Coatings

There are several products you can choose from to refinish your complete countertop. If you want a standard color such as almond or gray Lowes sells a countertop coating by Rust-Oleum for $35. If you would like a granite stone looking countertop Amazon sells Giani granite countertop paint starting at $76.
Other coatings are available depending on the quality and your budget. Each paint kit comes with it’s own instructions for applying their coatings. Follow the directions completely.

Tools And Materials Needed

• Masking Paper/Tape
• Paint Brushes
• Smooth 4″ Paint Roller/Handle
• 100 Grit Sand Paper
• Acetone

Safety Precautions

Chemicals used in refinishing can be hazardous wear a solvent rated dust mask and gloves when using chemicals or sanding. Always ventilate or use a fan to remove fumes. Read labels completely before using any products listed here. Keep children away when repairing or refinishing a countertop and keep products out of their reach..

By CW Mathews

Types of drywall material

That’s right there are different thicknesses and types of drywall to choose from for a particular installation. The drywall you use for walls in your livingroom will not protect moisture producing areas like a bathroom or kitchen. Making the wrong choice can result in mold or sagging issues.

1/2-inch Drywall: Used for livingrooms, bedrooms and hallways. Easy to work with and relatively light weight.

5/8-inch Drywall Type X: Used where fire rated requirements are needed and for ceilings to protect against sagging.

Moisture Rated Drywall: Used behind shower panels and for bathroom walls. Can handle moisture and prevents mold growth versus regular drywall. Avoid disaster never lay wall tiles over drywall use the proper wet board for laying your tiles.

Check proper wall framing before drywalling

Nothing worse then a wall not being straight and plumb. Always check the framing before hanging any drywall. Standards require a flat smooth surface to lay your drywall on. Check with a level and add shims or plane the studs down if needed. If you don’t then you will have to correct it later with a whole lot of joint compound and sanding.

Use proper screws not nails

A rooky move is to install drywall using nails. Drywall screws have more holding power and will not back out over time. The correct screw is important.

Wood studs require a coarse thread screw and metal needs fine threads. You can purchase these drywall screws at your local hardware store. Drive the screw into the drywall leaving a dimple just before breaking through the paper. If you break through the paper the screw loses it holding power. If this happens back it out and place in another spot.

Drywall hanging tips and tricks

Don’t hang drywall with vertical seams running from floor to ceiling. These will become weak points and crack. It is better to stagger seams creating a strong and stable wall giving more surface area for screwing into studs. Curved walls are another focus point. For slight curves use 1/4″ drywall if possible otherwise score the back of thicker drywall.

Do not score through the paper in the front. For really tight curves wet the drywall in the back with water let sit until pliable and carefully install

Taping and drywall joint compound

There are two types of joint tape paper and mesh. The pros prefer paper as it is strong and resistant to cracking. If you are new to installing drywall mesh may be a better choice.

Mesh joint tape does require a chemical based joint compound that holds the tape firm and has less shrinking. You can use regular joint compound for finish work after the mesh compound dries if you like.

Taping drywall joints like a pro

The key to taping drywall joints is to properly embed the tape into the mud. You do this by applying a thin layer of joint compound to the joint and pressing the tape into the compound. Smoothly pull your knife across the tape squeezing out excess joint compound and pressing the tape to the wall. This takes some practice.

How to make invisible seams

The secret is width the wider the better. You want to use a wide knife for this not a small one. Feather the joint compound to a width of about 6 inches eliminating the ridge caused by the drywall tape. 2-3 coats should be enough. Apply the mud thin and smooth.

Sanding and final steps

Sanding should be done with a pole sander using 150 grit. Hand sand corners and difficult areas. If something needs fix do it now. To find mistakes use a bright work light holding parallel to the walk. Shadows will pinpoint areas that need fixed. Sand lightly avoiding damaging the drywall paper. Double Check your work before priming and painting.

By Leo Rosa