Fiberglass bathtub repair inlay kits are a permanent repair for cracked damaged fiberglass, acrylic and cultured marble bathtub floors.

What is a fiberglass inlay and how do they work?

All fiberglass repair products are not alike. There are bathtub floor repair inlays that are made from plastic and glued to the floor of a bathtub with silicone. These cheap temporary patches are a waste of money.

The only repair inlay we recommend is offered by US Bath Products. It is made from durable semi-ridged composite and fused to the bathtub floor using a 2 part adhesive for a lifetime repair of your cracked fiberglass bathtub floor.

These inlays measure 16″ x 36″, are flexible and will never crack. Designed to look like a bathtub mat the fiberglass inlay will repair small to large cracks including holes in the floor of your bathtub. They can be used on fiberglass, acrylic and cultured marble bathtub floors and support up to 250 lbs.

Supporting a weak fiberglass bathtub floor

Installation takes about an hour for a bathtub that doesn’t require extra support under the repair area. If the bathtub floor is spongy or has a lot of flex when you step into it then extra support is needed.

To support a weak cracked bathtub floor the crack must first be stopped from further cracking. This is accomplished by drilling a 1/4 inch hole at each end of the crack .

Once the cracking is mitigated the repair area needs to receive extra support by injecting triple expanding foam under the bathtub and just under the damaged area of the floor. Triple expanding foam can be purchased at your local hardware store and comes in spray cans. A typical repair requires one can of expanding foam.

The expanding foam is injected through the holes that were drilled on the ends of the crack and allowed to expand under the repair area until the foam starts to come out of the crack then stop injecting the foam.

Allow the foam to dry and cure for 24 hours. Once cured cut or scrape the foam away flush with the bathtub floor then proceed with the inlay install.

Installing the fiberglass bathtub floor repair inlay

The fiberglass bathtub crack repair inlay kit will come with a plastic pail for mixing the 2 part glue compound, an application spreader for applying the compound once mixed and gloves. Additional supplies you will need include:

Acetone
1-1/2 inch masking tape
Paper Towels
100 grit sandpaper

When your fiberglass bathtub repair inlay arrives, lay the inlay on a flat surface and weight it down with a couple of books and let it acclimate to room temperature for 24 hours.

Once the inlay has acclimated temporarily place the inlay on the floor of the bathtub covering the damaged area and positioned where you want the inlay to be permanently place. Note the inlay must be placed on the flat part of the bathtub and not curl up the wall of the bathtub.

Weight the inlay down using a couple of books then outline the shape of the inlay using the masking tape. Once outlined remove the inlay. Using the 100 grit sandpaper rough sand the barhtub floor inside the area of the tape where the inlay will go. Rough sand until the area is matte with no gloss sheen.

When using chemicals and glue ventilate the area by opening windows or by using a fan.

Vacuum up the dust caused by sanding. Then using a paper towel dampened with Acetone wipe the floor area inside the tape removing any sanding film and contaminants from the surface. Allow Acetone to dry completely.

In the plastic pail provided thoroughly mix all of contents of bottle A and bottle B together making sure you scrap the sides of the pail as you mix. Using the spreader provided apply an even layer of the glue compound you just mixed to the bathtub floor area inside the taped outline where the inlay is to be placed.

With the smooth side of the fiberglass bathtub repair inlay facing down towards the bottom of the bathtub, place the inlay onto the bathtub floor inside the taped outline and press into the glue compound.

Using a roller or a smooth sponge and starting in the middle of the inlay press firmly on the inlay while pushing the roller or sponge out towards the tape outline. Continue doing this all around the inlay pushing the bubbles out of the glue compound.

Excess glue compound will push out onto the tape. When done carefully remove the tape and discard in the trash. You can wipe up any excess glue that got onto the bathtub with Acetone.

Allow the inlay and leftover glue compound in the pail to dry for 24 hours before using bathtub or discarding leftover material in the trash. To maintain your new fiberglass bathtub repair inlay wash it weekly with mild soap and water.

By Peter Carr

Wet weather causes dampness damaging carpet, wall coverings and furniture even a small leak in your basement can cause damage over time. Our guide will help you determine if your have water leaks in your basement and repairs you can make to resolve them.

Basement Waterproofing Defined

Waterproofing your basement includes sealing walls, installing a membrane and providing drainage to protect against water intrusion. This can be accomplished from the interior, exterior or both.

• Interior waterproofing focuses on fixing issues from inside the house.
• Exterior waterproofing involves working on the outside of your foundation before water seeps in.

Basement Water Problems Include

• Trapped water putting pressure on basement walls
• Cracked basement walls and floors allowing water to penetrate
• Soil not sloped away from the foundation
• Clogged rain gutters or downspouts draining directly on foundation

Basement Waterproofing Benefits

• Increases the value of your home
• Better air quality
• Protection against future damage
• Healthier space

Indications That Your Basement Needs Waterproofing

• Staining on walls and floors. Water pooling on the basement floor or where the wall meets the floor.
• Musty odors. mildew and visible mold on walls and furnishing.
• Visible moisture on walls with powdery white film.
• Cracks that keep getting bigger.
• Peeling paint and rust on metal are sign of moisture or humidity issues.

There is a test you can do with plastic wrap. Tape clear plastic wrap tight to the basement wall in the suspected area of moisture using duct tape. Let sit 24 hours. If moisture forms on the inside of the plastic wrap next to the wall there is moisture seeping through the wall. If there is moisture on the outside of the plastic facing the room then there is high humidity in the room.

Basement membranes and sealants like Semco and Liquid Rubber are just two products of many that can be used to waterproof your basement. With proper prep of the surface and reinforcement of joints you can get years of protection for your basement.

These methods are easy to apply can withstand high pressure are elastic and safe to use. This method is used for small to moderate cracks, seepage and moisture. Large gaps and foundation shifting require other methods or professional assistance.

Ways To Waterproof Your Basement

• Dig around your basement walls.
• Install drainage tiles and sump pumps.
• Grade the soil outside to slope away from your foundation, directing water away.
• Installing floor drainage to the interior of the basement.
• Application of waterproof coatings to interior/exterior walls, floor and installing strong membranes.
• Seal cracks with a flexible sealer.
• Inject cracks with polyurethane foam or epoxy.
• Extend rain gutter downspouts to drain away from the house.

Most people say that grading the soil to slope away from the foundation and adding clay soil helped to solve their basement problem. If You Need To Hire A Professional check their licensing with your local contractor’s board. Also check reviews and get a quote that includes warranty information.

Regular Maintenance

Even after repairs are completed it is smart to check your basement for cracks and water leaks every 6 months. Catching problems early can save you time and money. Be sure to clean gutters and downspouts regularly and to monitor the soil on the exterior of your foundation.

A portable dehumidifier can help with removing moist air from your basement. It works by pulling the humid basement air over cooling evaporator coils condensing and removing the moisture then pumping this moisture into a holding tank or drain. The air is then re-heating and blown back into the basement.

If you installed drains or sump pumps check them regularly for clogs and to make sure they drain and are pumping the water out properly.

By Peter Carr

If your toilet is constantly running, noisy or not filling properly it is most likely due to a bad toilet tank fill or ballcock valve. Older style ballcock valves can wear out resulting in poor performance and slower fill of the toilet tank. Our guide will explain why the Fluidmaster 400A is the right choice for repairing your toilet.

Why maintenance professionals and plumbers recommend Fluidmaster

The Fluidmaster 400A is a versatile repair valve that doesn’t require any tools or plumbing skills to install. It is universal so it can be adjusted in height to fit different size tanks and can be installed in less then 30 minutes following the instructions provided. One of the most recommended fill valves by professional plumbers and contractors.

Features of the Fluidmaster 400A fill valve

The replacement fill valve you choose to replace your old valve should shut off completely when the tank is full, fill the toilet bowl to the proper level, be adjustable and not interfere with the tank lid.

The 400A meets all of those requirements and more. Proper flushing requires adjusting the water level. Too little water will cause a weak flush while too much water will be wasted by draining out the overflow tube.

The Fluidwmaster 400A allows you set the perfect water level in the tank

Will the Fluidmaster 400A fit your toilet tank?

While the Fluidmaster 400A is a universal fill valve that doesn’t mean it will fit every toilet tank. Some tanks including some water saving toilet tanks or those with specialty plumbing may require a different valve..

Check your tank’s water connection, type of existing fill valve, space available inside the tank and the height to the tank lid. Compare those measurements to the Fluidwmaster 400A installation instructions.

Fluidmaster 400A installation

The Fluidmaster 400A installation requires the toilet tank to be emptied of all water. Flush the toilet and hold the flapper in the tank up so most of the water drains from the tank. Using a sponge soak up the remaining water.

Most installations require no tools but you may need channel locks to remove the old fill valve. Disconnect the waterline from the old fill valve. Loosen and remove the nut from the valve stem and remove the old fill valve from the tank.

Make sure the hole area of the tank where the new valve is being installed is clean. Install a new waterline don’t use the old one.

Adjust the height of the Fluidmaster valve to fit your tank. Test fit the valve before finally locking the nut per the manufacture’s instruction. Allow enough room for the float to move freely. Once you have fitted the fill valve to your tank push down on the locking mechanism and install the valve and tighten the the lock nut securely by hand.

Install the bowl fill tube to the overflow tube with the clip provided. Connect the waterline to the threaded valve connection and hand tighten snug. Turn on the water and check for leaks.

Adjust the water level in the tank and test the flush watching for any leaks. Once you have the toilet flushing properly you are done.

By Leo Rosa

(Home Fix Handbook received No Compensation For This Review)

PVC is a cheap alternative to copper waterlines and is code in some states but always check your local plumbing/building codes before starting this project. Don’t put off fixing this problem. Save time by hiring a leak detection service immediately to locate the exact area of the damaged water pipe.

Best way to locate an underground water leak

A leak detection company is the best way to pinpoint a water leak. They have advanced tools to find a leak within a foot of the break in some cases. The first step is to look for signs. Standing water that doesn’t go away is a good sign you have a leak in that area of your property.

Injecting a gas into the waterline and following the pipe while listening for hissing sounds using special equipment is another. The cost for professional leak detection can run several hundred dollars or more depending on the time it takes to locate a leak.

Before You Dig Think Safety

Never dig up waterlines without first contacting utilities to mark where the gas, electrical and cable service lines are. Call 811 or your local water, gas, cable and electrical companies and have them Mark the utilities running to your house.

Use the proper tools and safety gear including work boots, long pants, gloves and safety glasses. If unsure about the depth and placement of waterlines call your local building codes department before you dig. Expose the pipe carefully as you are digging.

Types of PVC pipe damage

PVC pipes can be brittle and crack from age, ground movement, excessive pressure in the line, improper installation and glue failure.

Once you determine what happened and where the repair is needed it is time to repair the water line. Start by locating the water meter to your house and turning off the water at the valve connected to the meter. There is no need to notify your water company.

Quick temporary waterline repairs

Quick temporary repairs to a main waterline will fail when the line is pressurized. Do not use pipe wraps, fiberglass wrap kits or patches when repairing a main water line break. For a quick permanent repair use a pvc compression coupler fitting as outline here.

Performing repairs to sections of damaged PVC pipe using compression fittings

Measure the PVC pipe diameter so you will know what size compression fitting to get. To get the size of the pipe measure the outside diameter of the broken pipe with a tape measure and divide it by 3.14 (PI). This size will be approximate and should be compared to a PVC size chart at the hardware store. Main line PVC pipe is typically schedule 40.

1. Using a PVC pipe cutter tool cut out the damage section of PVC so that it is a little bit shorter then the compression fitting following the manufacturers instructions.
2. Clean the ends of the pipe of dirt, burrs and rough edges using 220 grit sand paper until it is smooth.
3. Take apart the compression fitting ends and remove the rubber gaskets then reassemble sliding the rubber gaskets and nuts onto each end of the pipe (use soap and water if needed).
4. Center the fitting evenly on both ends of the pipe.
5. Screw the nuts on only hand tight then double check the position.
6. Snug with a pair of channel locks or a pipe wrench.

Clean-up and testing the repairs

After completing the repairs perform a pressure test. Turn the water on slowly allowing the pipe to fill with water slowly. Watch for leaks and drips at the connections. If any are found tighten up the fitting end a little more until the drips stop.

Once fully pressurized and no leaks are found back fill and support the pipe in sand. Then carefully backfill with dirt.

By Leo Rosa

How to Identify a Bed Bug?

Usually, when bed bugs are fully grown up, they appear reddish-brown. The body of the insect is long and has an oval shape. If you compare the body size and shape of the insect it almost looks like an apple seed. Some bed bugs look brown and may take on the shape of a tiny brown balloon. Bed bugs are like leeches since they fed on your blood.

Due to the similar body color and shape most of us make the wrong identification of these bed bugs and get confused with other bugs that look like bed bugs.

Harmful effects of bug infestation in your home

Bed bugs are terrible, but not more than other pests. They can harm you along with your household in several ways. Here are a few of its harmful characteristics-

• First of all a bed bug manifestation in your house can make you mentally unwell. Your house is in the most pathetic situation when it gets the severe bug manifestation
• The worst part about them is they feed themselves on your blood
• Sometimes their bites can get severe causing skin rashes, allergic reactions in some people, itching, sleeplessness and infections.

How to know the difference between bed bugs and other bugs

Here, you will get to know some simple techniques of recognizing bed bugs from other bugs in your home.

Booklice

The first that comes in the list is booklice. Unlike the reddish-brown body color of the bedbugs, it has a creamy or pale brown color on its body. Bedbugs have an oval shape body. The body shape of the booklice is segmented. It means they have a separate head and a body. You can even identify this specific insect by their body size.

The booklice body size is about 3/16 inch in length.

Both of them can be seen in a different parts of the world. The harmful nature of the bed bugs is more severe than that of booklice. While bed bugs bite, booklice never bite. They feed on grain, fungi, mold, etc. though they do not spread disease or destroy furniture. Their presence in a large number in your house can be irritating but harmless.

Bat Bugs

The most specific difference between the two insects is its body color. As you already know that the bed bugs are reddish-brown or mahogany in color, the bat bugs look light brown or beige. The similarity in their oval body shape can be confusing, but their color is different.

Unlike bed bugs, bat bugs are seen only in the United States. Both bugs fed on blood, but bed bugs target human beings. On the other hand, bat bugs feed only on the blood of bats. Differentiating both the bugs can be a little hard, but a close view of their body will tell the difference. Bat bugs are mostly seen where there are bat colonies.

Carpet Beetles

Carpet beetles are other bugs that look like bed bugs, both of them have a similar oval body shape. The easiest way to tell the difference between them is by their body color. Carpet beetles have a black body with white patterns in them; they even have red or orangish scales in their bodies. Both insects are commonly found in the household. Carpet beetles mainly feed on stuff that is made with silk, fur, wool, leather, skin, etc.

Though they are not blood-sucking, they can live on hair lint, etc. The places where the carpet beetles are found are somewhat similar to the bed bugs. You can find them in the mattress, inside the ducts and the floor vents, etc.

Spider Beetles

Spider beetles come in several body colors; few of them match the color with the bed bugs. Usually, you can find the spider beetles ranging in colors like pale brown, brownish yellow, reddish-brown and even in black. The reddish-brown ones are exact in color like the bed bugs. One other reason behind the similarity of both the insects is the oval shape of their body and spider beetles have a hump in their back which is unlike the apple seed shape of the bed bugs.

The spider beetles are not that harmful. They mainly feed on food grains. Again, the two insects are found in the same locations such as crevices and cracks.

Cockroach Nymphs

Cockroach nymphs are mistaken for bed bugs more then any other insect. Due to its reddish-brown and kind of oval-shaped body, people often mistake it as the bed bugs. But, when you look closer you will notice that the nymphs are more likely to have a cylindrical body shape.

Similar to the bed bugs, they hide in the cracks or holes in the house. Nymphs might not suck your blood but nevertheless a cockroach infestation may lead you to a serious asthmatic condition.

Be it a bug or bed bug do not leave them in your house to increase their numbers. These kinds of insects harm both your health and your household. If you are unable to clear the infestation alone call a professional exterminator.

By CW Mathews

The condition of a property affects the selling price for example a new roof can cost upwards of $15,000. If a home inspector uncovers that a home needs a new roof the buyer can negotiate with the seller to either lower the price of the home or the buyer can back out of the sale.

What does a home inspector check?

Interior

The interior of the house will be inspected for foundation movement such as cracked or separated drywall, unlevel floors and doors that are out of plumb. Appliances will be inspected along with the HVAC system, gas stoves, heaters and plumbing fixtures.

The electrical panel and breakers will be evaluated and checked for safety and compliance with state/local codes. If the home has a fireplace or gas stove these too will be inspected.

Structural Components

The home inspector during his inspection will note defects in structural components, unsafe conditions, improper installations, and signs of alterations while making recommendations that existing permits be verified. The inspection will cover accessible areas of the home.

Foundation & Basements

Your home inspector is looking signs that include cracked drywall or damaged unlevel floors that may be due to a bad foundation. He is also looking for mold and leaks in the basement. These issues can point to serious structural or foundation problems.

Framing and Facias

Inspectors look for any type of pest infestation and damage to framing and wood facias. Wood is also checked for mold and rot. The report will include recommendations for repairs or replacement.

Roofing

The roof is inspected checking condition of the trusses and shingles. The inspector is looking for any previous repairs or existing damage sagging and pest infestation.

Exterior

The exterior is inspected including siding decks concrete walkways and driveway. Observations are recorded such as cracks missing siding pest infestation including caulking around doors and windows. Home inspection covers all the most important parts of a home so buyers and sellers of real estate can make informed decisions.

Home inspector qualifications

As you can see home inspectors need to be familiar will most aspects of home systems and infrastructure, the different types of homes and their construction, plumbing systems, electrical and more. Most home inspectors go through training to be certified and licensed.

Some states require home inspectors to continue education classes to keep their licenses active. An inspector must also have insurance. A good source for finding a home inspectors worldwide is InterNACHI (International Association of Certified Home Inspectors. They help train, certify and prepare home inspectors to be licensed in their state.

How to hire a home inspector

One way to hire a home inspector is through the InterNACHI as described earlier. Other ways include through your real estate agent. Local real estate agencies keep a list of reputable inspectors they have used in the past but don’t just go by their recommendation you still have to check them out.

When hiring a home inspector or any professional to inspect or work on your house check their credentials first. Recommendations are fine but what counts is are they certified, licensed and insured. Not all states require home inspectors to be licensed or certified in this case use extra caution and check references and if possible do a background check.

Before hiring any home inspector they should provide you with a written inspection agreement to sign. Completely read that agreement and only sign it if you agree to the terms.

Other resources include the American Society of Home Inspectors. On their website’s “Resources” page you will find regulations for home inspectors by state and more information that will be helpful in your search.

By Peter Carr

We decided to put one of their most popular products Pro Strength Liquid Plumr “Clog Destroyer” to the test and the product’s claim that it can dissolve hair, grease and more guaranteed.

In this review we used a local hotel to help us test the effectiveness in real time using some of the toughest clogs we could find.

Cost for this test

The cost for this test was one case of Pro Strength Liquid Plumr “Clog Destroyer” drain cleaner we purchased at our discounted cost of $56 from HD Supply Solutions. A case includes nine 32 ounce plastic bottles of drain cleaner in itself a great deal at $6.22 per.bottle. Each bottle treats two drains.

Types of clogs we tested

The clogs we tested the Pro Strength Liquid Plumr “Clog Destroyer” on included hair in bathtub/shower drains and grease in bathroom sinks but we didn’t stop there. Other clogs we tested were food stuffs, black sludge and soap scum buildup in p-traps.

Over a period of two weeks we treated 4 bathroom sinks with clogged drains ranging from minor to complete clogs and moderate hair drain clogs in 3 bathtub/shower combos.

1 of the sinks tested had food stuffed down the drain of the sink by a guest at the hotel and was completely clogged.

Directions for use of drain cleaner

Before we began all safety precautions were followed. Disposable gloves and eye protection were used. We read the complete label and paid close attention to warnings. Pro Strength Liquid Plumr “Clog Destroyer” directions call for removing any standing water from the sink or bathtub before treatment.

Next we poured a 1/2 bottle 16 ounces of the Liquid Plumr into the clogged drain as directed. Pro Strength Liquid Plumr “Clog Destroyer” is a liquid gel that is reported to cling to the clog for longer contact especially in partially clogged drains.

Longer contact is important for tough clogs like hair and grease. While waiting on the next step do not run any water in the sink.

The next step was to wait 15 minutes to allow the product to work it’s magic. After waiting the full 15 minutes per the directions we followed by flushing the drain with hot water. This process was repeated on all 7 bathroom drains treated over the two week test period

The results of our test

Our test resulted in 5 of the 7 clogged drains being immediately cleared after the final hot water flush. A 6th clogged sink drain required a second treatment to fix and the sink drain that was packed with food by a guest  had to be snaked with a hand auger which we expected would be the case.

Fact is Pro Strength Liquid Plumr “Clog Destroyer” gets the job done and performed just as described. Worked excellent on tough clogs and with little effort. If it is tough enough for the abuse that a hotel hands out just imagine what it will do for your tough drain clogs.

Keep in mind the clogs we tested were limited to the p-trap and tail pipe sections of the sink drains. Other more serious clogs in the wall pipes and further down into the drain may require the use of a power auger or even a professional plumber to remedy.

By Peter Carr

(Home Fix Handbook received No Compensation For This Review)

It takes just 30 seconds for a small flame to turn into a major fire. A smoke alarm saves lives by detecting smoke giving your family time to escape.
If your family is asleep when a fire breaks out in the home a working smoke alarm may be your only warning. This guide will help you with placement of smoke alarms, how to regularly test and maintain while preventing fires.

Don’t ignore an audible alarm

Approximately 60% of deaths in home fires happen because they had no smoke alarm to warn them or the alarms they did have didn’t operate properly. Smoke alarms must have electrical power or a charged battery to function.

Treat every alarm as an emergency. Investigate each alarm even if you think it is a false alarm. Smoke alarms do just that, detect smoke. If you smell smoke go outside and call 911. Do not go back in the house unless you are instructed by emergency personnel.

Where to place smoke alarms in the house

While smoke alarms are required in hotels commercial buildings, condos and apartments they are not yet required in private homes in most states. The placement of a smoke alarm is very important. You want to install one in every bedroom, in hallways, in the living areas of the home, in your basement and in or near kitchens.

It is typically recommended to place the alarm on the ceiling or on the wall close to the ceiling. Gas companies and your local fire department are available to share local codes and provide you a plan on where best to install smoke alarms in your house.

Where not to place a smoke alarm

A smoke alarm is sensitive to things like exhaust fumes, excessive dust and moisture. Most false alarms are triggered by these factors. The National Fire Protection Association also recommends that a smoke alarm be placed at least 10 feet away from any stove and oven, microwave, grill or hot plate.

Batteries must not be removed from alarms that trigger falsely. It is recommended that the silence button be used until the alarm is placed in a better area of the house. Keep away from wall or floor vents. Do not place smoke alarms in garages or unfinished attic spaces.

Types of alarms and when to replace batteries

Most homes have a simple battery operated smoke detector while others like condos and apartments may have several smoke detectors spread throughout the rooms that are wired together and powered by 120v electricity with a battery backup. There are also smoke alarms that have a 10 year built in batteries that when expired the whole alarm is replaced.

Whichever alarm you have it must be tested regularly and the battery replaced yearly if not more. Another type of smoke alarm available will be combined with a carbon monoxide detector.

When to replace old smoke alarms

Smoke Alarms do have a manufacturers expiration dates and the National Fire Protection Association recommends that any smoke alarm that is 10 years old or more, has been damaged in any way or continuous malfunctions should be replaced with a new one. For those who cannot afford to replace or install a smoke alarm there are local and state programs in most locals that will provide one free of charge contact your local city or county offices for more information.

Each city and state has regulations and laws governing smoke alarms and the responsibility of landlords to provide working smoke detectors in their buildings. If your landlord refuses or has not provided a working smoke detector in your home in a timely manner contact your local government building codes department and report them.

Smoke detectors when traveling

The last thing just about anyone thinks of when traveling is “Does this smoke alarm work?”. We assume that everything in our hotel room or vacation home is working.

The fact is some hotels neglect to maintain smoke alarms even though states perform inspections on a regular basis.. You can’t depend on someone else for your safety. When it comes to fire protection. It is best to be proactive.

If you can access the smoke alarm in your hotel room or vacation rental test it. Every smoke alarm has a test button. If you don’t feel comfortable call the front desk or host and have them test it.

Some rentals may have heat sensors only or a combination of smoke detectors and heat sensors. Heat sensors are monitored so don’t touch them. Most hotel smoke detectors look just like the one you have at home. If you have a question about either one call the front desk or host.

Alarms need regular maintenance

You alarms need to be maintained so if or when there is a fire they work and give you early warning. Change the batteries on a regular basis. Spray dust from the outside and inside with canned air. Wipe the exterior clean with a slightly damp rag following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Follow this guide and make sure that your family is protect just in case the unthinkable happens.

By Peter Carr

Blink on Amazon sells single interior and exterior security cameras or packages that include up to 5 or more cameras. They also offer doorbell and spotlight camera systems and accessories. Cameras start at $20.

Syncing the security camera to Wi-Fi

The Blink 4 we are reviewing is a solidly made quality product out of the box and included the required Blink Sync Module 2 to connect to Wi-Fi, 2 batteries and a wall mount. After reading the instructions and downloading the app we attempted to sync the camera with our internet connection. It took several attempts before the camera was finally recognized by the sync module.

The Sync Module 2 has a USB port for attaching
a memory stick for saving video clips from cameras. These clips are viewable in the Blink app.

Setting up the Blink 4 in the app

Once connected setting up the camera in the app was pretty straight forward options included video quality, motion detection settings, night vision, audio and more. The video quality at 1080p is a far cry from the 4K of more expensive security cameras we have used but for the price it was acceptable.

The camera also has two/way audio with adjustments for volume control in the app. The audio is lacking in clarity but performed as expected.

Notifications and recording

As for motion detection and notifications the system’s cameras and software need some upgrades. Our tests were conducted using an internet connection speed of 320mbps and motion detection sensitivity in the app was set at the highest setting. Our test resulted in the camera failing to start recording motion until a full 3 seconds after motion was detected. We made adjustments to the settings which resulted in no improvement.

The subject we used was walking down a 25 foot sidewalk towards our door and wasn’t recorded until he reached the door. Repeated tests revealed variations of this result and were unaceptable.

Notifications from the app that motion was detected took up to 7 minutes to reach our phone after several tests. While these failures were sporadic they pose a problem trusting the system. For this reason we do not recommend Blink cameras for security purposes

Pros and cons

Pros
Affordable starting around $20.
Easy to setup and mount the cameras.
Adequate video quality
Works with Alexa

Cons
Storage of videos requires subscription
Motion detection moderate to poor
App notifications during event poor
Live View takes too long to load

Blink cameras may be affordable but in our opinion they are not reliable enough for use as a security system. There is no continuous recording of video and storage of video costs $10 per month. Motion detection and notifications are sporadic at best. There are much better systems available. The Blink Outdoor 4 camera in our opinion can be used to monitor children playing in the backyard, elderly parents or pets in “Live Mode”.

By Peter Carr

The key to any paint success is in the preparing of the surface even more so with metal door jambs. Proper sanding, primer and application method all play a vital roll. This guide will help you in choosing the correct paint and provide application tips for painting metal door jambs.

Choosing a metal paint

There are 2 choices when it comes to painting metal door jambs an acrylic paint or alkyd enamel made specifically for interior or exterior metal. There are also high-bred paints that contain paint and primer all in one. Standard wall paints do not perform well on metal door jams and will flake or peel easily so don’t use them.

Acrylics and alkyds are high quality durable coatings with excellent wear and hardness. They come in exterior for outside facing doors and casings that receive a lot of sun and interior moisture resistant finishes to protect against rust in bathrooms and basements.

These coating also work well against rust in coastal areas with salty air and high humidity.

Acrylic coating for interior metal

Acrylic water based enamel is recommended for painting interior metal door jambs and casings. Water based enamel has less fumes then oil based enamel, easily cleans up with soap and water and dries faster.

Acrylic water based enamel must be rated for metal doors and trim. A compatible primer is required. Use this product with proper surface prep in heavy use areas including in commercial applications for hotels and office buildings. Metal must be free of contaminates, oils and rust.

Alkyd enamel for exterior metal

Alkyd enamel is an excellent exterior paint where heavy traffic and abuse is a concern. Very durable and easy flowing coating for use in both residential and commercial applications.

While oil based alkyd enamels require a longer dry time and have more fumes then water based acrylics they are highly rated by park services, hotels, real estate companies and commercial properties.

Oil based alkyds require solvent cleanup and longer wait times for recoat. In enclosed areas ventilation is required. Other precautions exist so read labels carefully.

Preparing a metal door jamb to receive the paint

Preparing the metal is the most important step before painting the door jamb. Remove all dirt grease rust and loose paint.

Using soap and water wash the metal jamb and rinse. A degreaser TSP or similar product can also be used to clean just make sure it is rinsed off if required. Then let dry completely. Remove loose paint with a wire brush followed by sanding and priming the metal. Follow instructions on the paint can label and avoid common mistakes like:

Not sanding the metal before painting

Painting over rust, grease and loose material.

Avoid painting metal without priming first.

Follow humidity and temperature limits.

Metal paint application methods include spraying, brush-on and rolling with a smooth foam roller pad.

By Peter Carr