“Value” can be defined as increasing a homeowner’s comfort, adding enjoyment as well as increasing your home’s resale price. It is important to keep in mind not all home renovations add value.

Installing a Swimming Pool

A swimming pool addition is a good example. In warmer climates, a pool can provide hours of enjoyment and enhance an outdoor space, but it may not provide the financial return you expect.

According to Curbio, adding a swimming pool can increase a home’s value by roughly 7%. On a $400,000 home, that would amount to $28,000. The cost to install an inground pool averages $45,000, falling well short of your initial investment.

In some markets, adding a pool could make your home less appealing to potential buyers. Yearly maintenance costs can be as much as $1,800. There are also other concerns, including insurance and the time it takes to maintain a pool, that can discourage a buyer from purchasing your home.

Before any major renovation begins, have a well-thought-out plan that includes researching your local real estate market and the preferences of potential buyers.

Personalizing Can Have a Negative Effect on Buyers

Designing or renovating your home to suit only your personal taste can have a negative effect when selling your home. A buyer may see extra costs and work needed to change the space you created. Buyers tend to avoid homes with too much personalization, such as themed rooms, built-ins, and fixtures that reflect a particular taste.

It is important to keep these things in mind when planning a renovation, especially if you intend to sell your home in the future.

Focus on Value-Added Features That Match the Market and Your Home

Most buyers are interested in homes that take into consideration the climate, home type, neighborhood, and prices they can afford. For example, installing a patio kitchen in a colder climate may not suit the region, whereas a mudroom might be a better choice and appeal to more buyers.

The same can be said for specialty rooms, such as home theaters and hobby rooms. While these may add comfort or convenience for you, a buyer may not be interested.

More flexible spaces, such as a home office that can serve multiple purposes or an extra guest room, may add more value for a buyer.

Renovations That Reduce Usefulness Should Be Avoided

Renovations should not remove practical living spaces or reduce storage or parking. Turning a garage into an extra bedroom or family room removes parking and storage space that buyers may expect.

Combining two bedrooms into one larger space reduces options for larger families who need those bedrooms and eliminates closet space. Doing so may alienate many buyers looking for additional space for their families.

Top Renovation Projects 2025

(Source Zonda 2025)

How to Decide Whether a Project Is Worth Doing

Good renovation choices consider resale appeal to buyers in relation to cost, upkeep, and the benefits you enjoy while living in the home.

Research your local market and recently sold homes to help you judge what attracts new buyers. Meet with some real estate agents to find out what other homeowners entering the market are renovating to help them sell their homes. Don’t assume a project will pay off everywhere.

Stick to renovation projects that have historically offered a good ROI, such as kitchen renovations, bathroom remodels, improvements to your home’s energy efficiency, flooring updates, and window replacements.

By CW Mathews

Even if you do everything right when hiring a roofing company, things don’t always work out as they should. By following our guide to hiring a quality roofing contractor, you can eliminate many of the mistakes that could result in hiring the wrong roofer.

Know Your Roof

What do we mean by “know your roof”? It is important to know the type of roof you currently have and the approximate square footage. This can help you avoid being overcharged and make it easier to compare quotes.

The most common roofing material used on residential homes is asphalt shingles. Other types include metal roofing, clay or concrete tiles, slate, wood shakes, and solar tiles.

Knowing which material your home’s roof currently has, or the type of roofing material you want to replace it with, can help you understand the pricing and installation requirements.

To estimate the square footage of your roof, visit https://roofingcalculator.com. This tool uses satellite images to estimate the square footage of your roof in seconds by entering your address. You can also submit a request to have local roofing contractors bid on your project.

In all cases, if your roof is still under warranty, contact the company that installed your existing roof or review your warranty documentation before getting any quotes.

Have a Plan and a Clear Job Scope to Tell Your Contractor

Before getting quotes for your project, have a basic idea of what you want to accomplish with a new roof. Consider the current condition of the roof and any additions or other repairs you may want, such as new rain gutters.

This helps contractors provide accurate prices based on the same scope of work.

Repair Your Roof or Replace It?

If your roof is leaking, has wind damage, or has missing shingles, you may only need repairs instead of a new roof. An inspection by a professional roofing contractor can provide more information and help you make an informed decision based on the age and condition of the entire roof.

Price Is Only One Factor

While a great price is important, it shouldn’t be the only factor you use when choosing a roofing contractor.

The durability of the materials they will be using, the manufacturer’s warranty, and an installation warranty covering the contractor’s work should all factor into your decision when choosing a company to do the job.

Verify a Roofer’s Qualifications and Experience

Before getting any bids, select a few roofing contractors in your local area and get recommendations from people you trust. Then, research their reputations by reading reviews, checking their licensing, and verifying any associations they claim to have with manufacturers and organizations such as the Better Business Bureau.

If a roofing company claims to be a certified installer for a certain roofing material manufacturer, verify that certification with the manufacturer.

Always call and get verifiable references from the roofing companies. Ask if you can visit some of the properties where they have completed work locally. Beware of any company that refuses to provide verifiable references.

Before hiring any contractor, check their contractor’s license, liability insurance, and workers’ compensation insurance. Make sure all three are in the name of the contractor performing the work and that the company is licensed to do work in your state.

Roofing Estimates and Bids

When getting estimates and bids from roofing contractors, make sure you are giving each contractor the same scope of work. Write down what you want done and give a copy to each contractor so their bids are consistent.

Accept only written estimates and bids. Make sure everything you agreed upon is included in the bid before accepting it. Make all changes in writing before signing a contract.

A written roof replacement bid should include a description of the work, all materials to be used, the cost of labor, any applicable warranties, and the disposal of old roofing materials. If additions were requested, those should also be included in the bid.

A written estimate should also specify how long the pricing is valid, any deposit required, and when the final payment is due.

Before Signing a Contract

The first thing you should do is read the contract carefully and make sure it includes everything you and the roofing contractor agreed to, especially the price.

Any permit fees or subcontracting arrangements should be mentioned in the contract.

The warranty period offered by both the manufacturer and the contractor should be included. If financing was offered and accepted, this should be noted in the contract, and a separate financing agreement should be provided.

By Leo Rosa

The steps we will outline in this guide will cover picking the right air conditioner for your window, preparing the opening, mounting, sealing and testing the installation. Some of the steps will vary depending on the manufacturer and model. Always refer to the owner’s manual for exact installation requirements.

How to pick the right window air conditioner?

Match the A/C Unit to the square footage of the room you will be cooling using the manufacturer’s room size chart. Also take into consideration the size of the window opening.

To measure the square footage of the room you multiply the width of the room by the length. For example a 10 foot wide room multiplied by the length of 20 feet equals 200 square feet.

The GE Appliance Guide recommends a 6000 BTU air conditioner for this size room if you were to purchase one of their units. Other manufacturers may suggest a different size. Certified Energy Star models can save you as much as 35% on energy costs. Visit Energystar.gov for their window air conditioner sizing guide.

BTU Calculator For Air Conditioners

Choosing the correct size air conditioner for your room square footage is important. Too large of a unit will result in cooling the room too quickly while not removing enough moisture and too small of a unit will result in the air conditioner constantly running to try and cool the air in the room.

Measuring the window opening for the air conditioner

Window width

Measure the width of the inside opening between the left and right window tracks on double hung windows. On sliding windows open the window all the way. Measure the distance from the inner frame edge to the inner side of the open sliding sash (locking side). This will let you know if the air conditioned accordion panels will fit.

Window height

To measure the height you start from the bottom window sill up to the edge of the raised sash on double hung windows. On sliding windows measure from the bottom window sill to the edge of the top frame.

Sill Depth

Measure from the front of the window sill to the back. This is to make sure the air conditioner has a solid stable surface to rest on.

If you have security bars on your windows, shutters, or awnings that can interfere with your window air conditioner you should adjust the size of the A/C accordingly or modify these items. Check the sill for any weakness as it must be able to hold the weight of the air conditioner.

Electrical power access and requirements

Your new air conditioner will require a power outlet within 6-7 feet of the install. Most window a/c units come with a 6 to 7.5 foot power cord check the model you are purchasing for exact size of the power cord.

Read the label on the A/C unit and manual to determine voltage and plug type required. Outlet must be properly grounded. Never use extension cords or power strips with a window air conditioner.

Check local building codes, homeowner association and property manager for any restrictions before purchasing and installing an air conditioner especially if installing above the first floor. If you are unsure of electrical requirements or need help always call on a professional for assistance.

When do you need a air conditioner support bracket?

Most small window air conditioners don’t need an extra support bracket unless the sill it will be resting on is weak or damaged. Others that are over 80lbs or over 5000 BTU should receive the extra support.

Building codes in your area or landlords may require support brackets and for general safety it is a good idea to install extra support.

There are several different types of support brackets available. Before purchasing a support bracket check your A/C owners manual for any recommendations and you can contact the manufacturer for advice on your model.

Tools and safety

Screwdriver
Level
Drill & bits
Tape measure
Mounting bracket
Included hardware

If the A/C unit is heavy or awkward to handle alone get someone to help you. Wear gloves and eye protection when installing and drilling any holes. If installing on the floors above the first floor make sure to keep the area under your install blocked off from any foot traffic using caution tape or barriers.

Steps for Installing the window air conditioner

Inspect the sill

Inspect the sill for any damage, rot, cracking or weakness and repair before installing the air conditioner. Check stability and level. Locate where the condensation line will drain. The line should not drain onto walkways, walls or any other electrical equipment.

Placing the air conditioner on the sill

During this step have someone help you lift and stabilize the unit on the sill with controls facing you. The manual should give instructions on if the unit sits level or has a slight tilt for drainage.

Once stable on the sill and in the correct position install the supplied brackets using the included hardware. Follow the instructions in the manuals and Building codes. Do not install on a weak unstable surface. If installing additional supports follow the manufacturer’s guidelines.

Extend and Secure the Side Panels

Following the instructions in the owners manual for a double hung window extend and secure the side panels to the window frame with the included hardware. If installing to a sliding window follow these instructions

Lower the sash onto the air conditioner or the channel provided and secure as instructed. Test the sash to make sure it doesn’t rise or shift when the A/C is running.

Seal around the air conditioner to prevent air from escaping

Using the weather seals provided with the unit seal the space between the A/C and upper/lower sashes. Seal the space between the side panels. If needed you can also use spray expanding foam.

Sealing prevents cold air from escaping and warm air from entering through cracks and gaps.

Inspect the A/C unit

Check the unit install again before putting it into service. Make sure nothing is blocking the intake or the exhaust area. Check the condensation line routing and that the drain is not blocked. Plug the air conditioner in and perform a run test.

Test the controls, fan speeds and operation of the remote if it has one. Inspect and feel for any air loss from the seals and that the unit is cooling properly

Follow the instructions that came with your air conditioner for regular maintenance and cleaning.

By CW Mathews

Once the dishwasher cycle is selected

• A water valve adds water to the machine.
• The water is heated to a preset temperature.
• At the appropriate time the detergent dispenser is automatically opened.
• Water is jetted out of spray arms mixing the detergent to get dishes clean.
• The dirt water is drained normally into the sink drain through a hose.
• The water valve opens again and adds clean water into the dishwasher.
• The spray arms rinse the dishes and the machine drains again.
• Heating elements heat the air inside the dishwasher to dry the dishes.

Now that you know how a dishwasher basically works this guide will help you troubleshoot issues with dishes not cleaning, water not draining and other problems effecting the performance of your dishwasher. Before performing repairs on a dishwasher always turn off the water supply and power at the breaker.

When troubleshooting a dishwasher always review the owners manual which in most cases has a troubleshooting section. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for basic cleaning and adjustments including when to call a qualified appliance technician.

Other Appliance Guides

Start with checking the basics

If your dishwasher isn’t working before you start servicing or changing parts begin with checking the basics. An unlatched door or paused selector can look like a major problem when it really is a minor fix.

Dishwasher will not turn on

Check to make sure that the appliance is plugged in and the circuit breaker hasn’t been tripped. Repeated breaker trips require the help of a professional. If you smell burning, see any sparks or frayed wires turn the machine off at the breaker and call an appliance technician.

Check that the door closes without any obstructions and latches properly then if the dishwasher has a child lock check it too. Next cancel any program that was set and run a test cycle. If you get any error lights or codes record them. Refer to the owner’s manual to diagnose error codes. If you keep getting the error or the machine still doesn’t work turn it off

Low water flow can affect filling of the dishwasher and cleaning. The water supply shut-off for a dishwasher is normally located under the kitchen sink. Locate the shut-off valve and make sure it is open, the hose isn’t twisted or kinked and there are no leaks.

Dishwasher not cleaning properly

A dishwasher not cleaning can be attributed to several issues including restricted water flow from a clogged filter, poor loading of dishes, the wrong soap and hard water. The first thing you want to check is if the tub has dirty standing water in it.

If it does remove the filter per the owner’s manual. Rinse and clean the filter using a soft brush to clear the filter mesh of any debris. The filter Is located at the bottom of the dishwasher tub.

Cleaning the spray arms

Your dishwasher should have a top and bottom spray arm. The spray arms distribute pressurized warm water to remove food particles, grease and other debris from your dishes. Over time the spray arm holes can get clogged with food particles, mineral deposits and other debris that negatively effect the cleaning process.

The owner’s manual should have a section that explains how to remove these spray arms and clean them. Follow the manufacturer’s instruction for your model dishwasher.

Other tips for better cleaning of dishes

Space your dishes in the racks and if possible face the dirty side towards the spray jets. Do not nest bowls and cups. Make sure tall items don’t block the spray arms.

Never use regular dish soap in a dishwasher. Use automatic dishwasher detergent following the directions for dosage. Test to make sure the detergent dispenser opens during a cycle. If needed you can use rinse aids to reduce spots. Most rinse aids also help with drying your dishes.

Troubleshoot dishwasher not draining

When a dishwasher doesn’t drain you will find water remaining in the tub, visible food particles and dirty water. For safety it is best to remove the dirty water before reaching into the tub to remove debris and turn off the power at the breaker.

If you hear grinding or humming coming from the pump it may be damaged or the impeller may need inspection. In this case a professional appliance technician should be called to inspect the pump and impeller.

If the pump is fine, once standing water is removed from the tub clean the main filter as instructed in the owners manual. Carefully inspect and remove any blockage in the sump and drain areas. For safety be aware that broken glass and other sharp objects can be inside the sump for this reason safety gloves that protect against sharp objects should be worn.

Inspect the drain hose and sink connection

Next check the drain hose for binding, kinks and blockages. If the hose connects to a garbage disposal, confirm that the dishwasher inlet knockout plug was removed during installation. If the plug has been removed, check the hole for blockage by food or sludge. First make sure the garbage disposal is unplugged and the breaker is shut-off. Also check the garbage disposal and sink drain for blockages.

Dishwasher leaks

Dishwasher leaks should not be ignored. Water can damage wood cabinets, flooring and walls. Inspect the door gasket first to make sure it seals. Also check that the latch is locking properly and if it needs to be adjusted. As mentioned before do not use regular dish soap in your dishwasher as this can also cause your dishwasher to leak.

A misaligned door can be a cause for a leak along with clogged filters and over filling of the tub. Leaks can also come from the drain hose, pump and other seals. An inspection and looking for signs of leaking can help you pinpoint the cause of your leaking dishwasher.

Checking and unclogging the dishwasher air gap

A dishwasher air gap prevents dirty water from flowing back into the dishwasher during waste water discharge. A clogged air gap can cause water to spill onto your sink and counters, cause odors or affect the performance of your dishwasher.

To unclog the air gap turn off the dishwasher and remove the cap from the air gap. Inspect for food particles to be blocking the air gap. If you find any food particles remove them by wiping with a paper towel. You can also clean the air gap by using a pipe cleaner. Insert the pipe cleaner into the air gap inlet and outlet to clean debris from the air gap.

Finally run the dishwasher through the rinse cycle to check the operation of the air gap.

By Leo Rosa

Take into consideration the room that the tile will be installed. You wouldn’t want to purchase floor tile if you are tiling a kitchen countertop or a sink backsplash. In this guide we will help you pick the right tile for your specific project.

Wet location tiles for kitchen and bath

Porcelain Tile: A good choice for wet locations. Porcelain tile is durable and harder to cut then ceramic tile, has very low water absorption and is very dense. This type tile can be used on shower and bathroom floors including exterior wet locations.

Ceramic Tile: Is lighter than porcelain tile and great for using on shower walls. Glazed waterproof ceramic tile is also used for countertops and sink backsplashes.

Natural Stone: Can be used in wet locations on floors and walls but is porous requiring regular sealing to resist moisture and staining.

Glass Tile: Is slippery when wet and should only be used to accent shower walls or for building shower surrounds.

These tile selections will perform well over properly prepared walls and sub-flooring per the specs of their respective manufacturers.

Exterior tile selection

Exterior tile used as a wall covering or flooring on entryways, patios, exterior walls and porches will encounter extreme sunlight, rain, dirt, shifting temperatures, and in some cases freezing and thawing. Choosing the right tile is vital and you must take into account slip resistance, moisture absorption and most important durability.

Interior products including tile grout and adhesives may fail due to the harsh environment exterior flooring is exposed to.

Porcelain tile may be used in exterior applications on properly prepared and stable surfaces. Porcelain is a dense ceramic and durable product suitable for heavy foot traffic, wet areas, and exterior application in most instances. Porcelain tile requires less maintenance than natural products.

Ceramic tile is less preferred for exterior application as a flooring but can be used as a wall covering and on exterior countertops that are protected from the elements. Ceramic tile is not as dense or as waterproof as porcelain tile making it susceptible to damage by standing water or cracking. If installing ceramic tile in an exterior setting it is best to use in mild dry climates where freezing and thawing is not a problem. Again ceramic tile must be installed on stable properly prepared substrates using the correct adhesive and grout for exterior application.

Natural stone is a good choice for exterior flooring, countertops and wall covering adding strong character. Natural stone like granite, travertine, slate and limestone require regular maintenance and sealing. The chosen stone must meet thickness, exposure and maintenance requirements.

Natural stone must be able to handle the elements such as rain, freeze-thaw, extreme temperature, dirt, heavy foot traffic and constant moisture during the rainy season. Natural stone can vary in appearance greatly so get samples of the exact product you will be using before ordering. Make sure the stone you are ordering can be used for your specific application.

Tile ratings and safety

When choosing a tile research the manufacturer’s data on specific tiles. A matte tile or glossy tile does not determine if the tile is slip resistant or not. The current manufacturer’s data, including the Dynamic Coefficient of Friction rating or DCOF which measures the tile’s ability to resist slipping will help you choose the right tile product for your project based on slip resistance.

A higher DCOF rating means the better your floor’s slip resistance will be when wet and people walk on it. The lower the DCOF rating means your floor will get more slippery and become a safety issue as it ages.

Avoid poor tile choices

Choosing a tile based on color or pattern alone is asking for problems. Choosing a tile should be based on the installation location and conditions in that area such a moisture, traffic, slip resistance requirements, type of substrate and safety. It is not always recommended to use an interior tile for exterior applications. Always follow the manufacturer’s installation requirements and use the proper adhesives and grout.

By Leo Rosa

Model ePX3030 specs and design

The Westinghouse compact pressure washer model ePX3030 has a maximum PSI of 2000 and a water flow of 1.76 gallons per minute (GPM) aided by a 13 Amp electric motor.

The pressure washer comes with 2 quick connect spray tips 15-degree and 25-degree, soap applicator, a GFCI protected 35 foot power cord and a 20 foot high-pressure hose. The 2000 PSI rating is a peak rating and continuous pressure will vary. Gallons per minute rating of 1.76 GPM will also vary depending on which nozzle is used, lost pressure and the water feed from the house spigot.

Some assembly required out of the box

We had to assemble some of the parts after opening the box. The spray wand comes in two pieces which twisted together per the included instructions.

There is also a mount for the sprayer and another mount for the power cord that had to be installed on the body. Each were secured using a Philips screwdriver and the included screws.

The Westinghouse model ePX3030 pressure washer comes with two plastic wheels that needed to be installed by easily snaping them onto the lower body. In all assembly took less then 30 minutes. Last we attach the water supply hose and the sprayer hose to the wand.

After assembly the total weight of the compact pressure washer is approximately 16 pounds and lightweight enough for one person to carry around easily.

Using the Westinghouse 2000 Max pressure washer for the first time

Before we turned on the pressure washer we attached the 25-degree tip to the wand and turned on the water making sure there were no leaks. Then we plugged the GFCI protected power cord into a grounded electrical outlet and turned on the machine.

After a couple squeezes of the trigger to remove trapped air and prime the pressure washer fired right up. The water pressure and flow were comparable to the 2000 PSI Powerhorse power washer I own for my own home. The noise level of the motor is much quieter then the Powerhorse washer and this one is a lot more compact taking up only 1/3 the space.

We tested the pressure washer for the first time by washing a car. We installed the soap applicator and filled with diluted dish soap. The 25-degree spray head was perfect for this. We kept the nozzle about 2-3 feet away while washing the car and decided to scrubbed caked on mud and grime by hand.

The soap applicator worked as it was supposed to and the follow-up rinse went quickly with the 1.7 gpm water flow. We were a little cautious for the first use on a car but everything went as planned with the pressure washer performing as expected with plenty of pressure and water flow.include:

Performance on concrete walkway and driveway

This 2,000-PSI Westinghouse pressure washer was also tested on backyard concrete walkways covered in dirt moss and mold. We used the 15-degree spray head for this job.

While it took more effort and time to clean the concrete, the pressure washer had no problem cutting through the dirt mud and moss. We did have to hold the wand much closer to the surface sometimes within inches to get the job done. No soap or pretreat was used in this test just the power of the machine.

We also used it on a concrete driveway to remove oil spots. First we soaked up any oil with kitty litter and used a pretreatment for the oil.

After the allotted time required by the oil pretreatment we then power washed the oil spots. While the spots lightened up quite a bit they were not removed completely still the driveway looks a lot better. Some old oil spots can permanently stain concrete if not cleaned right away.

Seasonal maintenance and cleaning

The Westinghouse handled just as good on wood siding, lawn furniture and pet carriers. For seasonal maintenance and cleaning we recommend the Westinghouse 2000 PSI Max 1.7 gpm pressure washer.

It is compact and easy to move around. The 55 foot combined hose and power cord length allowed us to maneuver around a car easily and reach all items that we pressure washed on the exterior of the house.

While the unit is not very noisy we do recommend ear protection along with eye protection and sturdy footwear to protect your feet. As always read the complete instructions for use and safe operation.

By Peter Carr

(Home Fix Handbook received No Compensation For This Review)

Fiberglass bathtub repair inlay kits are a permanent repair for cracked damaged fiberglass, acrylic and cultured marble bathtub floors.

What is a fiberglass inlay and how do they work?

All fiberglass repair products are not alike. There are bathtub floor repair inlays that are made from plastic and glued to the floor of a bathtub with silicone. These cheap temporary patches are a waste of money.

The only repair inlay we recommend is offered by US Bath Products. It is made from durable semi-ridged composite and fused to the bathtub floor using a 2 part adhesive for a lifetime repair of your cracked fiberglass bathtub floor.

These inlays measure 16″ x 36″, are flexible and will never crack. Designed to look like a bathtub mat the fiberglass inlay will repair small to large cracks including holes in the floor of your bathtub. They can be used on fiberglass, acrylic and cultured marble bathtub floors and support up to 250 lbs.

Supporting a weak fiberglass bathtub floor

Installation takes about an hour for a bathtub that doesn’t require extra support under the repair area. If the bathtub floor is spongy or has a lot of flex when you step into it then extra support is needed.

To support a weak cracked bathtub floor the crack must first be stopped from further cracking. This is accomplished by drilling a 1/4 inch hole at each end of the crack .

Once the cracking is mitigated the repair area needs to receive extra support by injecting triple expanding foam under the bathtub and just under the damaged area of the floor. Triple expanding foam can be purchased at your local hardware store and comes in spray cans. A typical repair requires one can of expanding foam.

The expanding foam is injected through the holes that were drilled on the ends of the crack and allowed to expand under the repair area until the foam starts to come out of the crack then stop injecting the foam.

Allow the foam to dry and cure for 24 hours. Once cured cut or scrape the foam away flush with the bathtub floor then proceed with the inlay install.

Installing the fiberglass bathtub floor repair inlay

The fiberglass bathtub crack repair inlay kit will come with a plastic pail for mixing the 2 part glue compound, an application spreader for applying the compound once mixed and gloves. Additional supplies you will need include:

Acetone
1-1/2 inch masking tape
Paper Towels
100 grit sandpaper

When your fiberglass bathtub repair inlay arrives, lay the inlay on a flat surface and weight it down with a couple of books and let it acclimate to room temperature for 24 hours.

Once the inlay has acclimated temporarily place the inlay on the floor of the bathtub covering the damaged area and positioned where you want the inlay to be permanently place. Note the inlay must be placed on the flat part of the bathtub and not curl up the wall of the bathtub.

Weight the inlay down using a couple of books then outline the shape of the inlay using the masking tape. Once outlined remove the inlay. Using the 100 grit sandpaper rough sand the barhtub floor inside the area of the tape where the inlay will go. Rough sand until the area is matte with no gloss sheen.

When using chemicals and glue ventilate the area by opening windows or by using a fan.

Vacuum up the dust caused by sanding. Then using a paper towel dampened with Acetone wipe the floor area inside the tape removing any sanding film and contaminants from the surface. Allow Acetone to dry completely.

In the plastic pail provided thoroughly mix all of contents of bottle A and bottle B together making sure you scrap the sides of the pail as you mix. Using the spreader provided apply an even layer of the glue compound you just mixed to the bathtub floor area inside the taped outline where the inlay is to be placed.

With the smooth side of the fiberglass bathtub repair inlay facing down towards the bottom of the bathtub, place the inlay onto the bathtub floor inside the taped outline and press into the glue compound.

Using a roller or a smooth sponge and starting in the middle of the inlay press firmly on the inlay while pushing the roller or sponge out towards the tape outline. Continue doing this all around the inlay pushing the bubbles out of the glue compound.

Excess glue compound will push out onto the tape. When done carefully remove the tape and discard in the trash. You can wipe up any excess glue that got onto the bathtub with Acetone.

Allow the inlay and leftover glue compound in the pail to dry for 24 hours before using bathtub or discarding leftover material in the trash. To maintain your new fiberglass bathtub repair inlay wash it weekly with mild soap and water.

By Peter Carr

Wet weather causes dampness damaging carpet, wall coverings and furniture even a small leak in your basement can cause damage over time. Our guide will help you determine if your have water leaks in your basement and repairs you can make to resolve them.

Basement Waterproofing Defined

Waterproofing your basement includes sealing walls, installing a membrane and providing drainage to protect against water intrusion. This can be accomplished from the interior, exterior or both.

• Interior waterproofing focuses on fixing issues from inside the house.
• Exterior waterproofing involves working on the outside of your foundation before water seeps in.

Basement Water Problems Include

• Trapped water putting pressure on basement walls
• Cracked basement walls and floors allowing water to penetrate
• Soil not sloped away from the foundation
• Clogged rain gutters or downspouts draining directly on foundation

Basement Waterproofing Benefits

• Increases the value of your home
• Better air quality
• Protection against future damage
• Healthier space

Indications That Your Basement Needs Waterproofing

• Staining on walls and floors. Water pooling on the basement floor or where the wall meets the floor.
• Musty odors. mildew and visible mold on walls and furnishing.
• Visible moisture on walls with powdery white film.
• Cracks that keep getting bigger.
• Peeling paint and rust on metal are sign of moisture or humidity issues.

There is a test you can do with plastic wrap. Tape clear plastic wrap tight to the basement wall in the suspected area of moisture using duct tape. Let sit 24 hours. If moisture forms on the inside of the plastic wrap next to the wall there is moisture seeping through the wall. If there is moisture on the outside of the plastic facing the room then there is high humidity in the room.

Basement membranes and sealants like Semco and Liquid Rubber are just two products of many that can be used to waterproof your basement. With proper prep of the surface and reinforcement of joints you can get years of protection for your basement.

These methods are easy to apply can withstand high pressure are elastic and safe to use. This method is used for small to moderate cracks, seepage and moisture. Large gaps and foundation shifting require other methods or professional assistance.

Ways To Waterproof Your Basement

• Dig around your basement walls.
• Install drainage tiles and sump pumps.
• Grade the soil outside to slope away from your foundation, directing water away.
• Installing floor drainage to the interior of the basement.
• Application of waterproof coatings to interior/exterior walls, floor and installing strong membranes.
• Seal cracks with a flexible sealer.
• Inject cracks with polyurethane foam or epoxy.
• Extend rain gutter downspouts to drain away from the house.

Most people say that grading the soil to slope away from the foundation and adding clay soil helped to solve their basement problem. If You Need To Hire A Professional check their licensing with your local contractor’s board. Also check reviews and get a quote that includes warranty information.

Regular Maintenance

Even after repairs are completed it is smart to check your basement for cracks and water leaks every 6 months. Catching problems early can save you time and money. Be sure to clean gutters and downspouts regularly and to monitor the soil on the exterior of your foundation.

A portable dehumidifier can help with removing moist air from your basement. It works by pulling the humid basement air over cooling evaporator coils condensing and removing the moisture then pumping this moisture into a holding tank or drain. The air is then re-heating and blown back into the basement.

If you installed drains or sump pumps check them regularly for clogs and to make sure they drain and are pumping the water out properly.

Government grants available to elderly and low income to mitigate basement issues

The USDA Rural Development Office has a program under Section 504 Home Repair that issues loans to the elderly and low income homeowners for repairing, improving and modernizing their homes to mitigate safety and health related issues up to $50,000.

These funds may be used to remove toxic mold and other health related wet basement problems including safety hazards. Applicants must be low-very low income to apply.

Visit their website and click on your State for more information.

By Peter Carr

If your toilet is constantly running, noisy or not filling properly it is most likely due to a bad toilet tank fill or ballcock valve. Older style ballcock valves can wear out resulting in poor performance and slower fill of the toilet tank. Our guide will explain why the Fluidmaster 400A is the right choice for repairing your toilet.

Why maintenance professionals and plumbers recommend Fluidmaster

The Fluidmaster 400A is a versatile repair valve that doesn’t require any tools or plumbing skills to install. It is universal so it can be adjusted in height to fit different size tanks and can be installed in less then 30 minutes following the instructions provided. One of the most recommended fill valves by professional plumbers and contractors.

Features of the Fluidmaster 400A fill valve

The replacement fill valve you choose to replace your old valve should shut off completely when the tank is full, fill the toilet bowl to the proper level, be adjustable and not interfere with the tank lid.

The 400A meets all of those requirements and more. Proper flushing requires adjusting the water level. Too little water will cause a weak flush while too much water will be wasted by draining out the overflow tube.

The Fluidwmaster 400A allows you set the perfect water level in the tank

Will the Fluidmaster 400A fit your toilet tank?

While the Fluidmaster 400A is a universal fill valve that doesn’t mean it will fit every toilet tank. Some tanks including some water saving toilet tanks or those with specialty plumbing may require a different valve..

Check your tank’s water connection, type of existing fill valve, space available inside the tank and the height to the tank lid. Compare those measurements to the Fluidwmaster 400A installation instructions.

Fluidmaster 400A installation

The Fluidmaster 400A installation requires the toilet tank to be emptied of all water. Flush the toilet and hold the flapper in the tank up so most of the water drains from the tank. Using a sponge soak up the remaining water.

Most installations require no tools but you may need channel locks to remove the old fill valve. Disconnect the waterline from the old fill valve. Loosen and remove the nut from the valve stem and remove the old fill valve from the tank.

Make sure the hole area of the tank where the new valve is being installed is clean. Install a new waterline don’t use the old one.

Adjust the height of the Fluidmaster valve to fit your tank. Test fit the valve before finally locking the nut per the manufacture’s instruction. Allow enough room for the float to move freely. Once you have fitted the fill valve to your tank push down on the locking mechanism and install the valve and tighten the the lock nut securely by hand.

Install the bowl fill tube to the overflow tube with the clip provided. Connect the waterline to the threaded valve connection and hand tighten snug. Turn on the water and check for leaks.

Adjust the water level in the tank and test the flush watching for any leaks. Once you have the toilet flushing properly you are done.

By Leo Rosa

(Home Fix Handbook received No Compensation For This Review)

PVC is a cheap alternative to copper waterlines and is code in some states but always check your local plumbing/building codes before starting this project. Don’t put off fixing this problem. Save time by hiring a leak detection service immediately to locate the exact area of the damaged water pipe.

Best way to locate an underground water leak

A leak detection company is the best way to pinpoint a water leak. They have advanced tools to find a leak within a foot of the break in some cases. The first step is to look for signs. Standing water that doesn’t go away is a good sign you have a leak in that area of your property.

Injecting a gas into the waterline and following the pipe while listening for hissing sounds using special equipment is another. The cost for professional leak detection can run several hundred dollars or more depending on the time it takes to locate a leak.

Before You Dig Think Safety

Never dig up waterlines without first contacting utilities to mark where the gas, electrical and cable service lines are. Call 811 or your local water, gas, cable and electrical companies and have them Mark the utilities running to your house.

Use the proper tools and safety gear including work boots, long pants, gloves and safety glasses. If unsure about the depth and placement of waterlines call your local building codes department before you dig. Expose the pipe carefully as you are digging.

Types of PVC pipe damage

PVC pipes can be brittle and crack from age, ground movement, excessive pressure in the line, improper installation and glue failure.

Once you determine what happened and where the repair is needed it is time to repair the water line. Start by locating the water meter to your house and turning off the water at the valve connected to the meter. There is no need to notify your water company.

Quick temporary waterline repairs

Quick temporary repairs to a main waterline will fail when the line is pressurized. Do not use pipe wraps, fiberglass wrap kits or patches when repairing a main water line break. For a quick permanent repair use a pvc compression coupler fitting as outline here.

Performing repairs to sections of damaged PVC pipe using compression fittings

Measure the PVC pipe diameter so you will know what size compression fitting to get. To get the size of the pipe measure the outside diameter of the broken pipe with a tape measure and divide it by 3.14 (PI). This size will be approximate and should be compared to a PVC size chart at the hardware store. Main line PVC pipe is typically schedule 40.

1. Using a PVC pipe cutter tool cut out the damage section of PVC so that it is a little bit shorter then the compression fitting following the manufacturers instructions.
2. Clean the ends of the pipe of dirt, burrs and rough edges using 220 grit sand paper until it is smooth.
3. Take apart the compression fitting ends and remove the rubber gaskets then reassemble sliding the rubber gaskets and nuts onto each end of the pipe (use soap and water if needed).
4. Center the fitting evenly on both ends of the pipe.
5. Screw the nuts on only hand tight then double check the position.
6. Snug with a pair of channel locks or a pipe wrench.

Clean-up and testing the repairs

After completing the repairs perform a pressure test. Turn the water on slowly allowing the pipe to fill with water slowly. Watch for leaks and drips at the connections. If any are found tighten up the fitting end a little more until the drips stop.

Once fully pressurized and no leaks are found back fill and support the pipe in sand. Then carefully backfill with dirt.

By Leo Rosa