So the question is how are battery powered lawnmowers performing in the real word environment of home maintenance. We examine their performance and power behind battery operated lawnmowers.

Battery performance and power

One misconception that most people have is that gas powered lawnmower engines are much better and more powerful then battery powered mowers. The fact is that electric motors have instant torque that push blade power through thick grasses and allow for faster blade speed for a better quality cut then gas engines.

As with any lawnmower including battery operated mowers don’t allow your grass to get to long before mowing. While the lawnmower can cut tall grass it is better to regularly cut your grass. The battery will drain much faster if it has to work harder.

Better Performance And Life From Tool Batteries

Lawnmower battery runtime

Battery voltage matters when it comes to your lawnmower’s power output. The higher the voltage means increased cutting ability. In this case a 80v battery is better then a 60v.

AMP hours (Ah) affects runtime. For example a battery with an Ah rating of 7.0Ah has a longer runtime then a battery with a 4.5Ah rating. These ratings are posted on the battery box to compare before you buy.

Other things that can affect runtime are the height of your grass and if the grass you are mowing is wet. If your motor has to work harder it will result in the battery draining faster. To eliminate battery drain some lawnmowers have multi-slot battery compartments and swappable batteries.

Some of the benefits of using a battery operated lawnmower

One of the main benefits of battery operated mowers is that they are quiet compared to gas powered lawnmowers. Everyone benefits from less noise including your pets.

Spend less time maintaining your lawnmower. Electric motors require little or no maintenance. No fuel or oil needs to be purchased and no oil change is required saving you time and money.

Battery operated power tools are eco-friendly emitting no pollution. The improved air quality also benefits everyone and the batteries can be recycled.

What users are saying

Most users of battery powered lawnmowers say they love the ease of use just turn it on and mow. They like that you don’t have to go to a gas station to get gas and fill the lawnmower.

Storing the mower was another feature owners like as it can be stored upright and stored in a small area. These electric motors are lightweight too making uphill terrains easier to manuver.

Many homeowners report high quality and say battery powered mowers are just as powerful as gas powered. They also like the fact that they are eco-friendly.

Do battery powered lawnmowers pass the test?

With the latest advances in electric motors and battery performance cord free lawnmowers are a smart choice. They are quiet, virtually maintenance free, reasonably priced and powerful enough to get the job done.

If you are looking for a better and more environmentally friendly way to maintain your lawn a battery powered lawnmower is just what you need.

Price and included attachments

We purchased the standard model from Walmart for $39.99 which was a lowest and most reasonable price for this product. The purchase price included attachments to help with cleaning. Included are a crevice tool for hard to reach areas, elastic filter, utility nozzle for large debris and a brush attachment for dusting and cleaning vents.

The standard model does not include floor vacuuming tube extensions.

Out of the box

Out of the box setup was very simple and straight forward taking only a couple of minutes. Following the clear instructions we installed the elastic filter in seconds, snapped a few other parts together, took note of the accessories and was ready to vacuum in less then 5 minutes.

Right off the bat you will notice that this compact unit has a built-in hose caddy. The hose is rapped around the top portion of the shop vac and snaps securely into 2 spots no need to disconnect the hose for storage. All attachments fit securely onto the top of the vacuum housing for quick access. The hose without attachments is approximately 5 feet long.

The power cord is approximately 10 feet long that gave us about 15 feet of operational length from an electrical outlet. Use of an extension cord will increase this length.

Operation performance review

We used the Armor All 2.5 Gallon 2 Peak HP Wet Dry Vacuum in a commercial cleaning setting even though it is rated for residential use just to test durability and performance under maximum use.

The 2 HP motor which is standard on this size shop vac was midrange on noise. Level was not too loud and ranked right up there with other similar sized more expensive shop vacs we have used.

The suction was more then adequate to pull up dust, dirt, flooring debris and old caulking from a renovated bathtub. We monitored the suction throughout the day and was impressed with the performance.

We also tested the shop vac by cleaning the lint from under and inside of an electric clothes dryer. This vacuum had no problems accessing tight areas and the filter did not clog.

Note that the vacuum was half full with debris with no sign of suction loss even with a dirty filter. At this point we cleaned the filter and emptied the vacuum to review the wet functions of this wet dry vac.

Wet vac operation

As a wet vacuum the Armor All 2.5 Gallon 2 Peak HP Wet Dry Vacuum performs just as you would expect. We removed the dry filter for this test and simulated a dishwasher water overflow onto a kitchen floor.

Suction for cleaning the spill was excellent. The built-in float operated just as it should stopping suction when the water level reached maximum capacity in the tank. The 2.5 gallon capacity meant we had to empty frequently but for small cleanups the small vac was adequate and the portability was a plus.

Features

The construction of this compact shop vacuum is done with a durable plastic that can handle dings and drops without breaking. It is lightweight with a decent length power cord.

The top comes off easily for cleaning the container and filter while the handle allows you to move this vacuum anywhere you need it. In conclusion if you are looking for a compact wet dry vac that is powerful, lightweight and dependable this is your best deal. We were very impressed with this product by Armor All.

(Home Fix Handbook received No Compensation For This Review)

Increase battery life by properly charging your batteries

Proper charging not only requires reading the manufacture’s manual it requires actually following their recommendations. Each battery type has a specific charging method. If not followed the battery can degrade and the cells can be permanently damaged. This damage can result in less use time and failure of the battery in a short period of time. Never use damage batteries with your power tools.

Different types of power tool batteries and charging

There are three major types of batteries used for powering your tools.

• Lithium-ion (Li-ion) batteries are the most popular and are readily available for standard tool use. They are very forgiving when it comes to charging memory and rarely have capacity loss.
• Nickel-Cadmium (NiCad): Are an older type of battery. Make sure you let them completely lose their charge before recharging or they will keep the lower charge in memory and never fully charge again ruining the battery.
• Nickel-Metal Hydride (NiMH): Are batteries that are mid-range with easier to maintain charge memory if properly maintained per manufacturer instructions

The key to long life of your batteries is to always follow the manufacture’s maintenance and charging instructions and only use the correct charger when charging your batteries.

Modern battery charging safety features

Batteries and chargers today have built in safety features that protect against overcharging your batteries. When a battery is fully charged a microchip switches the charger off or to trickle charge.

This protects the battery from overheating or causing a fire. It is almost always recommended that you remove the battery from the charger when it reaches 100% charged.

It is also vital that you only use the charger that came with the battery. The original charger has safety features some other chargers may not have and the correct voltage.

How hot and cold temperatures effect tool batteries

Hot and cold temperatures are not good for your tool batteries. Storing the batteries properly will extend the battery life.

The ideal temperature for storing batteries is between 50 and 77 degrees. When the temperature is too hot batteries degrade faster.

When temperatures exceed 77 degrees the charge is reduced and performance is effected. Don’t store your tool batteries in the hot sun protect them in the shade and in a cool toolbox.

Cold can also effect battery performance. Batteries stored in cold temps make it hard to start tools until the battery warms up.

Avoid damaging your battery

A damaged battery can cause power failures and shorts within the battery while harming the tool it is supposed to run.

Even the smallest of dents in the case can compromise the cells, start fires and result in failure. Properly store the battery avoid leaving on concrete and protect the electrical contacts.

Before using a battery for your tools inspect it for cracks and dents. Check the contacts for damage and make sure that they are secure.

If the battery is swollen it must be thrown out but not in the trash. Batteries that are damaged or have holes can catch fire. They must be disposed of at a hazardous waste facility.

Maintaining your batteries by following the manufacturer’s recommended safety and maintenance schedule will allow you to get maximum life out of your batteries. Always use the recommended voltage battery for your power tool to avoid damaging tht tool.

The first requirement is to assess the job. Are the walls covering the bathtub tile or some other material?. If tile a few rows of tile need to be removed to lift the tub out be careful if this is old tile that is hard to replace. If sheet vinyl or a sectional surround is install above the bathtub these must be removed first before removing the old bathtub.

Measuring the  bathtub

Measure the old tub once the tiles or wall enclosure and any drywall is removed. Measure the length from top edge to edge. Measure the width from the same and the height of the bathtub from the floor all the way up to the top edge. Write these measurements down you will need them for purchasing your replacement bathtub.

New bathtubs can be purchased from most hardware stores like Lowes or Home Depot or you can shop for one online and have it delivered to the job site. If ordering online be sure to double check your measurements.

Removing the old bathtub

You will need to remove some plumbing first starting with the overflow cover just above the bathtub drain. Then remove the tub water spout, water control lever and cover.

The spout is either a twist off counter clockwise or a compression fit in which you will need an allen wrench to remove. Next remove the drain from the bathtub. To do this you will need a drain removal tool called a Drain Plug Tool available at your local Lowes or Home Depot store. Carefully remove the drain from the bathtub.

Now remove any water board or drywall that may be overlapping the edges of the bathtub and at this point you should be able to lift the tub out starting on one side.

Ask someone to help you if needed. Avoid damaging any plumbing or waterlines.

Installation tools and materials needed

• A pry bar
• Hammer
• Screwdrivers
• Wrench or pliers
• New bathtub
• Waterproof membrane or water board
• Caulking
• Teflon tape and connectors

Safety

Turn off the water at controls. Wear safety glasses and gloves. Clear the area of all debris. Find help to remove heavy objects and wear a back support belt when lifting.

Installing the new bathtub

Measure and install any missing or damaged drywall. If installing new tiles be sure to install new water board for reinstalling the tiles. These materials should extend to the edges of the tub so tiles or other wall coverings can overlap the tub edging.

If you will be installing all new drywall make sure the installation area is smooth and level. Clean the area thoroughly and then set the new bathtub into place. Make sure the tub is centered and level. You can use wooden shims to level if necessary.

Connect the drain and overflow first, then install the drywall, wall board for bathtub surround or tiles. Seal the edges of the tub with high-quality caulk or grout tiles to prevent water leaks. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions closely for best results. Install the water spout, shower water controls and showerhead when finished.

Disposal of old bathtub and final inspection

Properly dispose of the old bathtub if possible by recycling the metal. If not possible to recycle place in a landfill. Inspect the installation for proper fit of plumbing fixtures, fill bathtub with water and test drainage. Once walls or tile are installed properly caulk the bathtub.

Caulking your bathtub and shower is a do-it-yourself job that doesn’t require hiring a professional. In this guide we will provide expert step by step instructions in how to do the job right.

What to look for when checking the caulking?

Cracks or Peeling: Separation from the bathtub or walls and cracking of the caulking means it is time to recaulk. Easily peeling off in strips is another sign the caulking has failed.

Mold and Mildew: Mold or mildew that can be wiped off is not an issue but if it is embedded in the caulking the waterproof features of the caulking have outlived it’s life and needs to be replaced.

Old and Discolored: When caulking gets old it turns yellow and may be stained. Replacing the caulking give the fixture a fresh look.

Tools you will need for the project

Standard Caulking Gun

Razor Knife

Caulking Scraper Tool

Putty Knife

Painters Blue Tape

220 Grit Sandpaper

Which caulking should you use?

There are several types and brands of caulking available. The best caulking for a bathtub and shower is 100% silicone.

Silicone caulk is not only completely waterproof it resists mold, remains flexible and is easy to work with. Use a silicone caulk that is specifically formulated for kitchens and baths.

Silicone caulking cannot be painted. If you need to paint over caulking use a latex or mix that states on the label that it can be painted. Caulking also comes in other colors besides clear or white.

The step-by-step recaulking process

Supplies Needed:

Safety Glasses

Acetone

Paper Towels

Disposable Gloves

Caulking removal

The first step is to remove the caulk. The goal is to remove all of the old caulking this is done by using a razor knife to cut along the bottom of the caulking that meets the bathtub or shower pan followed by cutting along the wall where the caulking adheres to tile or the shower gel coat.

While cutting out the old caulking be careful not to damage the surface. Use the caulking removal tool to remove the majority of the old caulking

A residue of old caulking will remain. Using a razor blade or scraper remove any caulk residue that remains on both surfaces.

To apply new caulking the area must be clean and dry. Scrubbing the area of application with a bathroom cleaning solution followed by a rinse and complete drying is essential.

To remove any soap residue wipe down with 70% denatured alcohol and let evaporate before applying new caulking.

Apply Caulking

Load the tube of caulking into the caulking gun and snip the top of the tube at a 45 degree angle. Poke a hole in the tube to start the flow.

Squeeze the trigger and empty a small amount on a paper towel. Apply the tip of the tube to the seam you want to caulk. Holding firmly squeeze the trigger of the caulking gun while moving the gun smoothly across the seam applying caulk as you go.

Try to apply in one continuous motion applying an even amount of caulking.
The finished product

Finish by smoothing out the caulk. Running your finger along the bead in a continuous motion be sure to press into the seam gap.

You can use a caulking tool to get an even coat if you don’t want to use your finger. If you see gaps in the caulk just apply more and smooth again.

Allow the caulking to dry and cure for a minimum of 24 hrs before using the bathtub or shower. Once cured weekly cleaning with a mild soap will keep your fixtures and caulking looking great for years.

We have all seen those sprinklers watering the street and sidewalks while flooding one area of a lawn. This can be corrected with the right sprinkler heads, adjustment and spray pattern.

In this guide we will explain the different types of sprinkler heads and offer up our top 3 picks based on professional use throughout the U.S.

Types of sprinkler heads

Traditional pop-up sprinkler heads

These heads are called pop-ups because when not in use the heads are flush to the ground and out of sight. When the system is turned on the heads pop-up.

These heads have set spray patterns that can be 1/4 circle, 1/2 circle or full. The nozzles can be changed to adjust flow and the distance of the spray. They also come in varying heights depending on the depth of your system.

Rotory large area sprinkler heads

Rotory sprinkler heads are for larger areas of lawn. They put out a stream of water not a spray while watering deep and more slowly then pop-up heads.

The heads can be adjusted for distance, width of the stream and ark. A gear spins the head back and forth sweeping across the lawn. Perfect for clay and to prevent runoff into the street or on sidewalks.

Large lawn Impact Sprinkler Heads

These heads are mostly seen on golf courses, in parks and commercial applications. Impact sprinklers cover very large areas of lawn. A weighted arm hits a stream of water making a click- clack sound while pushing the head in a sweeping motion. Very durable sprinkler heads but can be noisy.

Our #1 Choice for best sprinkler head is the Hunter MP Rotator

The Hunter MP Rotator is not an actual sprinkler head but an insert you screw into your existing pop-up sprinkler head making it more efficient.

Features

Lower your monthly water bill and the savings pay for the upgrade in a matter of months.

The Hunter MP Rotator uses less water and saturates slower allowing the soil to soak up more water eliminating run off.

The coverage of the lawn is more even due to the attention put on the pattern of water flow. Even coverage means less brown spots in your lawn.

These inserts are easy to install and fit other bodies besides Hunter. The quickest way to upgrade your system.

Our #2 Pick: Rain Bird 5000 series rotor sprinkler heads

The Rain Bird 5000 series is smartly engineered for watering med to large lawns. This popular model is a go to for both professionals and the do it yourselfer.

Features

Durability: Made tough for years of quality use.

Quick adjustments: Easily adjust the spray radius and ark at no tools needed.

Even coverage: Even water flow coverage reducing brown spots, stopping puddling and wasteful runoff.

Top 3rd Pick: Orbit 55100 gear drive sprinklers

For it’s low price and home performance we picked the Orbit 55100 with gear drive. Performs great on residential applications.

Features

• Coverage: A quiet strong performing gear drive for med to large lawns
• Adjustment: Easy adjustments a perfect choice for those installing their own systems.
• Value: excellent value for residential lawns and those looking for a system on a tight budget.
  

Choosing the right sprinkler heads for your specific lawn

Lawn layout

Small or narrow lawns almost always will use popup sprinklers. Rotory heads are just too big and will cause problems like runoff or spraying on your house.

Large lawns can use rotary heads or a mixture of both if your specific lawn has strips of grass combined with large areas to cover.

Types of soil

• Clay: This type of soil does not absorb water very fast and is prone to runoff. Water clay soil using rotatory heads that water slower like MP Rotators.
• Sandy: Unlike clay, sandy soil absorbs water fast and requires frequent watering. Use high flow heads on this type of soil.
• Sloped Areas: Use low flow heads and slower watering to avoid runoff. Standard popup heads will not work properly on sloped lawns as their flow rate is too high use rotary heads.

Why spend $10,000 or more on central air conditioning systems when you can save on installation costs and time installing a mini split system yourself.

The mini split ac systems today come pre-charged with refrigerants and step by step instructions for do it yourself installations. Our guide will walk you through preparation, design and installation of a mini split residential install.

Preparation planning and design

The most important part of this install is picking the right size system. Too small and the unit will run constantly, waste energy and create a stuffy environment. The rule is 20 BTU per square foot of space so a 250 sq ft space would require 5000 BTUs to properly cool the space.

To measure square footage use a tape measurer and measure the width and length of the space then multiply the two. For odd shaped spaces you can break then up into sections to measure.

Determine which rooms you want the wall mounted units placed in to determine the size of the system then refer to the manufactures chart to order you mini split system. Also contact you local building codes office for any restrictions that may apply. In some cases more then one system will need to be purchased.

Tools

Drill
Drill Bits
Set Screwdrivers
Level
Tape Measurer
Multi-Meter
Thread Tape
Wire Cutters
Adjustable Wrench
Ladder
Gloves
Eye Protection

Locating the mini split AC interior units

Indoor wall units should be place high on the wall away from anything that can block the flow of air including furniture and curtains.

They should be mounted close to electrical outlets for power and near drainage areas. The outdoor unit should be placed on flat stable ground in a shaded area if possible for better cooling.

12 inches minimum is required between walls and the outside unit. It helps to map out your placements on paper.

Installing the Indoor ductless unit

First locate and mark the wall studs using a wall stud finder. If no studs use heavy metal anchors.

Mark the bracket using a level following the instructions that came with the unit. Double check to make sure the unit is level.

Setting Up the Condensate Drain Line

The indoor wall unit will produce condensation water that must be drained. A hose and mounting hardware are provided .

There are two mounting methods. Drill through the wall behind the wall unit for an exterior evacuation of water or use brackets to secure the hose to the interior wall. In any case this hose must be kept clear to avoid backup of condensation water.

Look here for general air conditioner maintenenace

Mounting the outside condenser unit

The outside condenser needs to be mounted on a solid surface. Platforms can be purchased or you can pour a small concrete slap to mount the condenser on.

A condenser can also be wall mounted to the exterior if needed. Rubber pads should be place under the unit to absorb heavy vibrations. Double check level and that the install is solid..

Connecting service lines from interior units to exterior condenser and testing

Connecting the two units from inside to the outside requires drilling a hole through the wall. Following the instructions from your specific model then feed all the lines to the outside and secure.

Be sure to seal the hole properly to keep rain and bugs out. At this point you have to decide to connect the Refrigerant Lines, drain and power yourself or hire a professional to connect the system and test.

Most states require only licensed professionals to test air conditioner refrigerants. Having said that you can hookup electrical, controls and run the system.

Before hooking up power turn the circuit off at the breaker panel. Strictly follow the instructions that came with your mini split AC for hooking up refrigerant lines, drains, power supply and controls.

Ground Bees are a wonderful addition to a garden. These tiny insects will fly around your property looking for flowers to pollinate, leaving behind a sticky residue on anything they land on.

If you want to get rid of ground bees once and for all, there are some easy steps that you can take to make it happen!

This blog post will teach you how to get rid of ground bees so they don’t become a problem for anyone!

What Are Ground Bees?

The bees are solitary bees that build their underground nest at the surface of a moist area.

Ground bees are also commonly known by the name mining bees, digger bees, and ground-nesting bees and they’re part of the Andrénidae family.

There are more than 4,500 species of ground bees throughout the globe, with most species measuring less than 10 cm in length.

Ground bees are solitary bee groups. It is more convenient to live alone, as queens raise their children alone in their backyard.

Only female grass bees can sting and it is rare for them. It is well known that these people are somewhat docile and would prefer a quiet existence.

What Do Ground Bees Look Like?

The species of bee can be identified by their unique nesting patterns. These bees will create a small mound of dirt that resembles a volcano. The top of the volcano will have a hole that leads to the bee’s nest.

Ground bees are usually black or dark brown in color and they have yellow stripes on their abdomen and may look like a honey bee. The female ground bee has a stinger, but they are not aggressive and they will only sting if they feel threatened.

Male ground bees do not have a stinger and they are typically smaller in size when compared to the female bee.

Bee hornets have distinctive hairs that are longer and shorter than those of hornets or wasps. Bees will also have six legs, two antennas, and eyelets. Most of them have mandibles.

Do Ground Bees Sting?

They are not aggressive, like social bees and wasps. Ground bees will generally ignore people who don’t bother them just like sweat bees.

Unlike the males, female ground bees have stingers; however, they will only use them if they feel threatened.

On the other hand, you’ll typically see male bees flying around above the nests.

The stinging males are harmless. The most they can do to you is chase you away.

What Type of Ground Bees is Harmful to Your Garden (and You)?

Most types of ground bees are not harmful or dangerous insects to your garden or to you. In fact, they are beneficial because they help with pollination! Ground bees do not sting.

The only type of ground bee that may be harmful is the carpenter bee. Carpenter bees burrow into wood and can cause damage to your house or other wooden structures on your property.

Carpenter bees are usually black in color and they have a yellow band on their abdomen. If you see a bee that looks like this, it is best to leave it alone and call a pest control expert.

Should I Kill Ground Nesting Bees?

No, you should not kill ground-nesting bees but you should try and get rid of ground bee nest! These bees are important for pollination and they will not bother you unless you bother them first.

If you have a nest on your property, it is best to leave it alone and let the bees do their job. If you must get rid of the nest, there are many ways to do it without harming the bees.

What Attracted Ground Bees To Your Yard or Garden?

Ground bees attract flowers and dry vegetation from your yard. Solitary bee species are looking to create a nesting area on wet soil that can be quickly found.

Once this has occurred they cover nests using waterproof linings so bacteria cannot be killed by their baby.

Female bees often seek for their ideal nesting spot in common places around your yard or property.

These old abandoned rodent holes are particularly attractive for ground bees as these offer good habitats.

Signs & Causes of Ground Bee Infestation

How should I identify a bee problem in my garden? Ground bees find tiny holes and hiding spots about two inches in diameter.

The easiest way to identify a ground bee infestation is by looking at the soil in your backyard.

See the loose but raised dirt in these holes that indicate some excavation in the region is taking place. The hole needs a big enough hole so bees can crawl into it.

Ground bee pests may also be visible. Nonetheless, you may be in remission with some bee holes flying high over you in an adjacent yard.

When a bee is detected it should be taken with caution because it can be quite painful.

How To Get Rid Of Ground Bees Without Killing Them

If you’ve noticed bees swarming around your yard, don’t panic! These are likely ground bees, and while they may be annoying, they pose no threat to you or your family.

The good news is that there are a few simple steps you can take to get rid of them without harming them. Read on to learn more.

Cover the Nesting Holes

The first step is to find the nesting holes and cover them up. Ground bees typically nest in abandoned rodent burrows, so look for small holes in the ground near trees, stumps, or logs.

Once you’ve found the holes, simply cover them with a piece of cloth or other material.

This will prevent new bees from entering the nest and will eventually cause the existing bees to leave in search of a new home.

Wet the Soil

Another effective method is to wet the soil around the nest with a hose or watering can. The damp soil will make it difficult for the bees to excavate their nest and they will eventually move on.

Be sure to keep the soil wet for at least a week to give the bees enough time to find a new home.

Sprinkle Cinnamon

Cinnamon is a natural bee repellent that can be used to great effect. Simply sprinkle cinnamon around the perimeter of the nest and the bees will stay away.

You’ll need to reapply cinnamon every few days, but this is a cheap and easy way to get rid of ground bees without harming them.

Use Vinegar Spray

Vinegar is another natural bee repellent that you likely already have in your kitchen. Just mix equal parts water and vinegar in a spray bottle and spritz it around the nest.

The smell of vinegar will deter bees and cause them to leave in search of a new home. Be sure to reapply every few days for the best results.

Bottle of Trap with Sweet Soda

Another best way to get rid of ground bees without harming them is to use a bottle trap. You can make your own bottle trap by using a plastic bottle with a sweet soda inside it.

The bees will be attracted by the sweetness of the soda and crawl inside the bottle, but they won’t be able to crawl back out.

Once the bottle is full of bees, you can release them far away from your home.

Pure Peppermint Oil

Peppermint oil is another natural ingredient that can help repel ground bees and other pests.

Simply mix together equal parts water and peppermint oil in a spray bottle and spritz it around your yard or garden—the strong scent of the peppermint will keep the bees away without harming them.

You can also add a few drops of peppermint oil to a cotton ball and place it near where the bees are coming into your yard—the scent will scare them away while they try to build their nests elsewhere.

How to Prevent Ground Bees from Coming Back?

Ground bees love loose soil for its easy tunneling and hole making ability.

Having Ant Hills in your backyard increases the chances that ground bees are a problem because they prefer shadier conditions.

Keeping soil or lawn moist can help to reduce the dry soil ground bees prefer to nest. In addition, the earth bee might dig into abandoned burrows that previously had been dug by rats and other animals.

If you have abandoned nesting places on your property you should fill the holes to protect the nesting areas.

Alternatively, you can plant plants that the bees dislike so they cannot nest in your garden.

When Should You Hire a Professional for Ground Bee Removal?

If you have a large number of ground bees, it might be necessary to hire a professional.

You should also call a professional if the infestation is inside your home or in an area that is difficult to reach.

Professional beekeepers have the proper equipment and experience to remove ground bees quickly and safely.

They will also be able to provide you with advice on how to prevent ground bees from returning in the future.

How does stucco get damaged

Stucco is a protective shell keeping the elements out of your home. Stucco is ridged and susceptible to damage from settling of your home, expansion and contraction from changes in temperature and daily stress. We have listed most of these causes for stucco damage below.

Stucco damage and causes

• Thin cracks: settling of the house and the normal drying process can cause minor cracking in stucco.
• Larger cracking: especially around windows and doors means there is more serious settling accuring within the structure of your house or foundation.
• Holes and gouges: are almost always caused by rocks, wind blowing branches hitting the stucco, hail, trama from items like chairs hitting the wall or other items causing holes or gouges.
• Stucco breaking off: causes include water intrusion and damage or poor installed stucco that has not bonded correctly.
• Chalking: white powder like substance on the surface of the stucco. This is caused by the stucco absorbing water then the water evaporates leaving salt. Moistures is going into your walls.

What contributes to stucco damage?

Expansion and contraction caused by extreme fluctuations in the weather is the leading cause of stucco damage. These extremes cycling over and over again cause cracking and weaking of your stucco walls.

Water getting into these cracks and other factors like leaks and porous stucco allow moisture to get trapped behind the stucco which loosens the bond causing flaking and chipping of the stucco.

Tools and materials needed to repair stucco

• Acrylic stucco patch: Premixed for cracks and minor small repairs. This product can handle flexing that comes with expansion  and contraction of your home.
• Cement stucco patch: Used for large repars like big holes and areas of missing stucco. Comes in bags that you mix with water.
• Bonding agent: Needed to bond patching compounds to the old surface.

Tools
• Stiff brush
• Spray bottle with water
• Hammer
• Chisel
• Stucco trowel
• Sandpaper
• Plastic mixing bucket
• Safety supplies
• Drop cloth

Step-by-step repair process

Begin by making sure the repair area is clean. Using a stiff brush remove dirt old paint and loose stucco. Clean the repair area really good so the new stucco will stick.

If you have cracking grab a chisel and hammer make the cracks wider in width while creating a “V” shaped grove to accept the stucco patch. Re clean using the brush.

Using the spray bottle with water spray the repair area to moisten lightly. If patch is applied to a complete dry surface the stucco patch will have a problem adhering.

How to apply stucco patch

Always follow the directions on the container of stucco patch. Apply bonding agent per directions. Using the stucco trowel put enough patch on the trowel you feel comfortable working with. The patching material should be thick but not falling off the trowel.

If applying from a tube squeeze it into the crack and then level to the existing stucco with your trowel. If patching bigger areas use several layers to fill in as too thick will cause the compound to crack as it dries.

Matching your existing stucco texture

There are different types of stucco texture used during application they are sanded, skip trowel and smooth. You want to match the existing texture while the stucco patch is still wet.

For a smooth texture use the stucco trowel to smooth the patch blending into the existing stucco. Sandy stucco is created by dabbing with a sponge and a rough skip troweled look is achieved by creating peaks using your trowel.

Once you have matched the texture the patch needs to dry and cure. Cure times vary depending on temperature and humidity. Follow the manufacturers guidelines on the container. When dry and hard use some sandpaper to smooth the edges and blend into the surrounding stucco.

Patching major stucco damage

Sometimes you may encounter major stucco damage caused by water leaks. In this case repair the leak first. Locate the damage and if the wood behind the stucco is wet replace it. Patching over wet wood will cause rot and patch failure.

Large patches require fiberglass mesh be applied with the first coat of patch. This will strengthen the repair and protect the patch from cracking during expansion and contraction.

Performing regular inspections of your stucco will catch minor damage and help to keep major issues from developing in the future.

This handy guide will help you solve some of the most common problems you may encounter with your clothes dryer. For more advanced fixes consult a local professional appliance technician

Understanding dryer types

There are two types of residential clothes dryers gas and electric.

Both operate essentially the same except for the heat source. A gas dryer heats using natural gas or propane and an electric dryer heats using an electric heating element.

These type dryers are vented which means they exhaust heat and moisture through a vent line and outside of the house.

Gas dryers go one step further and exhaust harmful carbon monoxide also through the vent. It is important to keep the exhaust hose and vent clear of any build up of lint.

Common dryer problems

• Clothes stay damp after a full cycle.
• Unusual noises like banging or squealing.
• Overheating or dryer shutting off abruptly.
• Error messages or blinking lights on digital displays.

Other dryer troubleshooting fixes

Troubleshooting Electrical Issues

Make sure dryer is plugged in. Check the circuit  breaker to see if is tripped. Check for loose plug and power at the electrical socket by plugging another device or test with a multi-meter. Always turn the power off at the breaker before inspecting or services a dryer.

Breaker and House Fuse Inspection

Check for a blown house fuse and tripping breaker as this can power off your dryer. Reset each and be cautious if the breaker or fuse keep tripping this can mean there is a more serious issue requiring a professional.

Electrical Component Troubleshooting

Your electric dryer has internal parts that can fail our have issues too. If power is available check the thermal fuse and the control board or timer. If your skills level is such that you need help call an appliance technician.

Gas Dryer Troubleshooting

Gas dryers have a gas valve and electronic ignitor that can malfunction or need to be reset if your dryer stops heating. Check the power supply circuit breaker reset the gas valve and check the wiring connections on the electronic ignitor.

Gas dryer burners can also get clogged with lint and pet hair so make sure the burners are cleaned on a maintenance schedule.

Clothes Not Drying Completely

If your loads aren’t drying completely it most likely is an air flow problem. Lint can block the exhaust hose on electric and gas dryers.

This will cause clothes not to dry and can be a fire hazard. Remove the exhaust hose and clean out all of the lint. Also clean lint from inside the dryer housing this is done by removing the back of the dryer or an access panel.

Check the vent on the outside wall too and if necessary clean the lint buildup. A dryer lint trap is available to catch lint. It is placed inline with the dryer exhaust hose and catches lint that bypasses the lint screen.

Drum Not Turning

A broken belt is the number one reason for the drum not turning. Next check the motor and the dryer door switch.

If the problem includes knocking noises or squealing  check for a broken stabilizing drum wheel.

Error Codes

Todays modern dryers have displays that will display an error code when something goes wrong. Check your dryer’s manual for what a specific code means. You can also search oline for your dryer model and typically find a chart for error codes.